On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 16:19:15 GMT, Puckdropper
wrote:

-MIKE- wrote in news
1. A WorkSharp 3000 was delivered to the house yesterday and I
finally got to set it up and use it. Dang, is this thing dummy-proof
and effective. They did a great job designing it and manufacturing it
so it's affordable. I now have chisels and hand planes I will
actually use instead of curse at. I have wetstones but I'm just not
patient enough to get them out and use them. Having this machine
set-up, ready to go will be my motivation to keep my chisels "scary
sharp." If you're interested in a great price with free shipping,
check out jbtoolsales.com.

While we're at it, someone send me a link explaining how to properly
set-up hand planes. I don't think I'm getting most out of mine.

https://thechristiantoolcabinet.word...nimal-bench-pl
ane-tuning/

I noticed a big difference after properly bedding the frog.

I found the WS does a fantastic job of flattening chisels and plane
irons, but when it comes to the bevel I like the concave bevel off of my
grinder and just a few passes on a stone. I often use the WS and
grinder together: grind a bit, cool, WS a bit to knock off that wire
edge, and repeat.

I've been considering a sharpening system was wondering about the
"hollow grind" that a wheel (e.g. Tormek) would give. It seemed that
one would either have to go one way (hollow - Tormek) or flat
(WorkSharp, Sorby, stone/diamond) but mixing them wouldn't work well
at all.

One more thought: I know Leonard Lee says not to dip the tool in water
to cool it, but I really don't notice a big difference in edge life when
I do. When it takes a few seconds on the WS to refresh the edge, why
waste time letting the tool cool naturally?

OK, why waste money on good chisel steel?

For the really fine sandpaper, look he
http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/mmr_discs.htm#6_0_psa

I clearly have a lot more research to do. ;-) There seems to be a
lot of folklore out there, too. :-(