Thread: Plumbing
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trader_4 trader_4 is offline
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Default Plumbing

On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 8:02:12 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 11:07:57 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 1:40:26 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 06:17:10 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 11:43:17 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 17:49:15 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 6:34:34 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 14:45:49 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 5:35:47 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.

Why do you have to open a wall for a clogged drain? Typically they
can be snaked. Where is it blocked? If it's further down the line
there should be cleanout plugs along the way, eg in the basement, etc.

Why do you have to open a wall for a leaking water valve? If it's
just dripping or leaking at the stem seal, they should be serviceable
with a screwdriver and wrench.

The valves are roughly 45 years old and the bottom of the box is
rusted because of a previous leak.

A few years ago I had a plumber try to snake it out and he said the
drain was blocked.

Is the trim piece something that can go in at any time or does it have
to be done in the rough in?

AFAIK, the "trim piece" is an assembly that has the valves and the drain
opening and it goes in as a unit. If you want to see one, check it out
at HD. The plumber should have told you how far along the drain the
blockage is. If it's 6 ft away, tearing the top of the drain apart
isn't going to solve it. You'd need access near the blockage, assuming
there is no other way to access it. Hard to imagine what could get
down that kind of drain, ie only used for a washer discharge hose,
that could be a blockage that can't be snaked out. If that box is really
rusted out and shot, then sure, changing it would make sense. If it;s
just cosmetic rust and the real problem is the valves are leaking,
you could fix the valves and repaint the box. And unless the blockage
is right there at the end, whatever is going on with that is essentially
separate from replacing the box. Where does that pipe go, ie is it
accessible in a basement, crawl space, etc?

I was thinking the same thing about what could have made it blocked,
but I am sure it is in the elbow at the floor. One side of the elbow
you can see from the crawl space, but the other end is in the sheet
rock wall.

I have one of these, but I can't get it unblocked. It is 4 feet max
to the blockage.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FOQK7TI...a-301953356563

PVC or ABS pipe? Enough room near the elbow to cut it, take out a
section and put in a T with a cleanout? If you have room to do it,
should be pretty easy.

It is not plastic pipe, it's metal.

I will check to see if putting in a T will work. Thanks for the
suggestion.


For metal you can use a Fernco type coupling, they might even have
a Fernco type product with a cleanout plug as part of it. But I
guess with a Fernco you don't need a cleanout plug. If it happens
again, you can just loosen and slide the coupling for access.

Since it's metal, probably galvanized, next question is how old.
Metal eventually succumbs to corrosion with age, and that may be
part of the problem. Hope not, because then you might have to
replace more and have more problems.


I would say roughly 50 years old.


That's at the age where typically you have problems with steel pipe
failing. It actually corrodes and fails from the inside out, kind
of like artery blockage in people. That could be contributing to
the clog.