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JayPique JayPique is offline
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Default All This Talk of Gluing Edges: Practical Illustration

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 11:32:07 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/16/2018 10:21 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/16/18 6:39 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 1:41:18 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
All this talk of edge glue joints and glue starvation and clamping
pressure and blah, blah, blah.... SWMBO had a request so I needed
to do a quick panel glue-up. Just two 7" poplar boards edge joined
for some little side table thingie that wimenfolk like.Â* I don't
know, I just make sawdust.

So anyway, I just wanted to put in the very minimum effort to show
how just a table saw can do what you need.Â* Also, to show how
little glue is needed (I actually STILL used too much) and how
little clamping pressure and time are needed with modern PVA
glues.

The first 2 pictures shows *one* technique (I have several that use
the TS) for putting a straight edge on a rough-sawn board.Â* Once
you have one straight edge-- flip and repeat and you have parallel
straight edges.

3rd pic shows a thin covering of glue on each edge.Â* Again, I
still think I used to much as can be seen in the squeeze-out in the
following 2 pics.

The next 2 pics show how strong a glue joint is after only a
couple hours in the clamps.Â* Spoiler alert!Â* The wood breaks, not
the glue.

The last pic shows the stained panel and how tight and
imperceptible the joint is.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pmyWHV7ANvFek7b62

Thanks for that. I'd agree, too much glue.

Nice simple jig for creating a straight edge. Is that a Diablo blade?
Which style?

I switched out my freshly sharpened 24 tooth rip blade for a freshly
sharpened 40 tooth Diablo generalÂ* purpose and got a much smoother
rip. I'll save the 24 tooth for rough stuff.


*Full* kerf, Freud Glue Line Rip blade.
http://www.freudtools.com/products/product/LM74R010

I'm one to make sure there's an even coat of glue across the surface of
the wood to be joined.Â* Some guys just squirt a thin line and let the
glue spread out and cover when the two pieces are pushed together.Â* Not
sure that always works, but hey it's still probably enough.


If you don't spread the glue to completely cover the surface, the entire
surface might not get covered when clamped, THAT is glue starvation. I
use one of those silicone brushes that WoodCraft sells, Rockler too, to
spread the bead on the surface. They clean easily and if you forget to
clean the glue off you can pull it off after the glue dries.

If yo simply squirt and go you really never learn how much is enough.
If you brush the bead you get really good at knowing how much to apply.







When you spread out glue on an edge, it's almost impossible to *not* get
too much glue in the joint.Â* I've seen a LOT more squeeze-out in other
guys' projects, including my out.

I guess my goal is to get some perceivable squeeze-out with no bubbles.
Â*If you can't get that, then next best is no dripping.Â* With this
glue-up, I got bubbles without drips.



I almost always use a small, soft brayer with PVA. It's quick, effective and rinses right off easily. You sort of get the hang of how thick a bead to lay down for proper coverage depending on thickness and material.

JP