On 1/14/18 11:13 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 11:34:39 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/14/18 10:28 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 10:50:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/14/18 9:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 9:41:58 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/14/18 8:22 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 6:53:14 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jan 2018 14:27:10 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:
On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 5:03:30 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jan 2018 12:44:52 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:
On 1/14/18 11:02 AM, Leon wrote:
My table saw leaves a very clean edge, but
my router table leaves a edge that is
buttery smooth.
Not the best for a glue up.
I wondered about that as well. A really smooth
surface won't soak up the glue as well and you
could squeeze out too much when clamping.
There is a lot of back and forth on this. Typical
yellow/wood glue is not a good gap filler and
works best with a minimum of product in the joint.
Tooth marks create gaps. Additionally there is a
lot of back and forth talk on starving a joint by
squeezing glue out of it. Glue starvation as it is
often called is when there is no or not enough glue
on the surface to begin with not because you had
squeeze out. You get squeeze out because there was
too much glue in the joint to begin with. If you
don't get squeeze out you have no indicator that
the joint is tight. I have never had a joint fail
because of too much clamping pressure and causing
too much glue to squeeze out. Remember, a quality
glue joint line is one that is almost invisible.
Yeah, there are a lot of old wives' tales in
woodworking and those are three of them. Glue doesn't
"bite" and holds perfectly fine to "buttery smooth"
surface.
Try it with glass.
Apples and Gorillas
No, it really isn't. It's a mechanical connection.
OK, let's stop arguing about stuff that doesn't matter to
this thread and get back to the actual issue.
Bottom line: Are you saying that the surfaces created by a
straight router bit on the edges of two 1 x poplar boards is
too smooth for Titebond III to perform its designed task?
I don't know what he's saying, but I'll say no. Some advice,
though. You'd be amazed at how much smoother (smaller "bumps")
a surface you get with a larger diameter bit at a higher speed
and slower feed rate with the stock.
I suppose someone could do the math, but I'm sure you can
picture that the larger the diameter of the cutter head, the
larger the radius of the cut, meaning fewer and smoother
"bumps."
In ANY case! Many times, when using a jointer (JOINER!, nor
wait! JOINTER! No, no, it's joinyerterner!) or router, I am
often in the habit of "planing" the edge surfaces with light
passes of 100-120 grit with a hard surface sanding pad (block
of wood) if I'm dissatisfied with the smoothness of the
surface.
I RARELY do that when said surfaces are to be glued together.
And have never done so when using the table saw and rip blade
to prep the boards to be glued together.
I'm making 2 panels from 1 x stock. Each will have 2 seams. Each
will see more or less the same use/abuse since they will both be
used as tops for the base cabinets for the bookcase project.
(similar to yours)
I already glued up one panel with boards jointed with a 24 tooth
rip blade.
I then figured out what I was doing wrong with my hands and
jointed 3 other boards with a 1/2" straight bit on my router
table. I'll be gluing up that panel tomorrow.
I will mark the underside of each panel as to the jointing
method used. I will do my best to remember to revive this thread
if either of the panels fail during my lifetime.
By that time I'll probably be able to post a hologram version of
the failed joint image that I'll create with the MRI machine that
I'll build with my 3D printer array.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izQB2-Kmiic
Haha! Please don't pay too much attention to the people trying to
make rocket surgery out of this. IIRC, you were joining two 9" wide
boards to make 18", correct? If I were worried about anything, I
would be worried about cupping on those panels. I would rather join
four 4.5" boards than two 9" ones.
Two 7.5" and one 5.5" board to be trimmed down to ~18". But, and this
is a big but...
Here is a close up of one of the 7.25" boards:
https://i.imgur.com/YLE37pH.jpg
The boards are already edge glued, consisting of random 3/4" to ~2"
strips.
A local lumber yard carries them as "paint grade" boards, at a much
lower cost than clear poplar. They are dead flat and the joints are
so tight the only way that they are visible is because of the change
in grain.
I spoke to a couple of contractors that frequent the lumber yard and
they can't say enough good things about these boards. We'll see.
PFFT! Well, then we're already talking about glued up panels.
Nothing to worry about. I used a bunch of those in pine a couple days
ago and I use them all the time for wide shelf panels. I love them.
They are very stable and a good way to save time.
Actually, what started me down this jointing and gluing path was the POS
pine panel that I bought at Lowes last week.
I think this is what I bought but it was shrink wrapped. (I tossed the
packaging and can't find the receipt right now.)
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-3-4-...Board/50053137
It seemed to be perfectly flat in the store, but once I cross cut it in
half, it warped so fast I could almost watch it bend. ;-)
By the next morning one piece rocked diagonally corner to corner and
when I put the 2 halves face to face there's an ~3/32 gap at the center
of the 20" width. They look like this: ()
If Lowe's won't take it back with just the receipt, I've got $32 worth of
"quick burn" material for the fire pit.
When I buy them, I always check the ends at the end grain to see if they
are alternated, grain-wise.
Most of those are made in Brazil in factories that don't have the most
skilled laborers.
So it's worth it to make sure the grain patterns are alternating on each
and every laminated board.
Oh, and Lowes will take back just about anything... even if it's just
for store credit.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com