View Single Post
  #78   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
-MIKE- -MIKE- is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,721
Default Jointing On A Router Table - Can't Keep Even Pressure

On 1/14/18 9:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 9:41:58 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/14/18 8:22 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 6:53:14 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jan 2018 14:27:10 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 5:03:30 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jan 2018 12:44:52 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/14/18 11:02 AM, Leon wrote:
My table saw leaves a very clean edge, but my
router table leaves a edge that is buttery
smooth.

Not the best for a glue up.

I wondered about that as well. A really smooth
surface won't soak up the glue as well and you could
squeeze out too much when clamping.


There is a lot of back and forth on this. Typical
yellow/wood glue is not a good gap filler and works
best with a minimum of product in the joint. Tooth
marks create gaps. Additionally there is a lot of back
and forth talk on starving a joint by squeezing glue
out of it. Glue starvation as it is often called is
when there is no or not enough glue on the surface to
begin with not because you had squeeze out. You get
squeeze out because there was too much glue in the
joint to begin with. If you don't get squeeze out you
have no indicator that the joint is tight. I have never
had a joint fail because of too much clamping pressure
and causing too much glue to squeeze out. Remember, a
quality glue joint line is one that is almost
invisible.

Yeah, there are a lot of old wives' tales in woodworking
and those are three of them. Glue doesn't "bite" and
holds perfectly fine to "buttery smooth" surface.

Try it with glass.

Apples and Gorillas

No, it really isn't. It's a mechanical connection.

OK, let's stop arguing about stuff that doesn't matter to this
thread and get back to the actual issue.

Bottom line: Are you saying that the surfaces created by a
straight router bit on the edges of two 1 x poplar boards is too
smooth for Titebond III to perform its designed task?


I don't know what he's saying, but I'll say no. Some advice,
though. You'd be amazed at how much smoother (smaller "bumps") a
surface you get with a larger diameter bit at a higher speed and
slower feed rate with the stock.

I suppose someone could do the math, but I'm sure you can picture
that the larger the diameter of the cutter head, the larger the
radius of the cut, meaning fewer and smoother "bumps."

In ANY case! Many times, when using a jointer (JOINER!, nor
wait! JOINTER! No, no, it's joinyerterner!) or router, I am often
in the habit of "planing" the edge surfaces with light passes of
100-120 grit with a hard surface sanding pad (block of wood) if I'm
dissatisfied with the smoothness of the surface.

I RARELY do that when said surfaces are to be glued together. And
have never done so when using the table saw and rip blade to prep
the boards to be glued together.


I'm making 2 panels from 1 x stock. Each will have 2 seams. Each will
see more or less the same use/abuse since they will both be used as
tops for the base cabinets for the bookcase project. (similar to
yours)

I already glued up one panel with boards jointed with a 24 tooth rip
blade.

I then figured out what I was doing wrong with my hands and jointed 3
other boards with a 1/2" straight bit on my router table. I'll be
gluing up that panel tomorrow.

I will mark the underside of each panel as to the jointing method
used. I will do my best to remember to revive this thread if either
of the panels fail during my lifetime.

By that time I'll probably be able to post a hologram version of the
failed joint image that I'll create with the MRI machine that I'll
build with my 3D printer array.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izQB2-Kmiic


Haha! Please don't pay too much attention to the people trying to make
rocket surgery out of this.
IIRC, you were joining two 9" wide boards to make 18", correct?
If I were worried about anything, I would be worried about cupping on
those panels.
I would rather join four 4.5" boards than two 9" ones.

If I have the exact dimension wrong, forgive me, but I'm sure there's
something out in google land that tell the maximum width for sub-panels
in a wide panel glue-up.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com