On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 9:41:58 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/14/18 8:22 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 6:53:14 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jan 2018 14:27:10 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:
On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 5:03:30 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jan 2018 12:44:52 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:
On 1/14/18 11:02 AM, Leon wrote:
My table saw leaves a very clean edge, but my router
table leaves a edge that is buttery smooth.
Not the best for a glue up.
I wondered about that as well. A really smooth surface
won't soak up the glue as well and you could squeeze out
too much when clamping.
There is a lot of back and forth on this. Typical
yellow/wood glue is not a good gap filler and works best
with a minimum of product in the joint. Tooth marks create
gaps. Additionally there is a lot of back and forth talk on
starving a joint by squeezing glue out of it. Glue
starvation as it is often called is when there is no or
not enough glue on the surface to begin with not because
you had squeeze out. You get squeeze out because there was
too much glue in the joint to begin with. If you don't get
squeeze out you have no indicator that the joint is tight.
I have never had a joint fail because of too much clamping
pressure and causing too much glue to squeeze out.
Remember, a quality glue joint line is one that is almost
invisible.
Yeah, there are a lot of old wives' tales in woodworking and
those are three of them. Glue doesn't "bite" and holds
perfectly fine to "buttery smooth" surface.
Try it with glass.
Apples and Gorillas
No, it really isn't. It's a mechanical connection.
OK, let's stop arguing about stuff that doesn't matter to this thread
and get back to the actual issue.
Bottom line: Are you saying that the surfaces created by a straight
router bit on the edges of two 1 x poplar boards is too smooth for
Titebond III to perform its designed task?
I don't know what he's saying, but I'll say no.
Some advice, though.
You'd be amazed at how much smoother (smaller "bumps") a surface you get
with a larger diameter bit at a higher speed and slower feed rate with
the stock.
I suppose someone could do the math, but I'm sure you can picture that
the larger the diameter of the cutter head, the larger the radius of the
cut, meaning fewer and smoother "bumps."
In ANY case! Many times, when using a jointer (JOINER!, nor wait!
JOINTER! No, no, it's joinyerterner!) or router, I am often in the
habit of "planing" the edge surfaces with light passes of 100-120 grit
with a hard surface sanding pad (block of wood) if I'm dissatisfied with
the smoothness of the surface.
I RARELY do that when said surfaces are to be glued together.
And have never done so when using the table saw and rip blade to prep
the boards to be glued together.
I'm making 2 panels from 1 x stock. Each will have 2 seams. Each will see more
or less the same use/abuse since they will both be used as tops for the base
cabinets for the bookcase project. (similar to yours)
I already glued up one panel with boards jointed with a 24 tooth rip blade.
I then figured out what I was doing wrong with my hands and jointed 3 other
boards with a 1/2" straight bit on my router table. I'll be gluing up that
panel tomorrow.
I will mark the underside of each panel as to the jointing method used. I
will do my best to remember to revive this thread if either of the panels
fail during my lifetime.
By that time I'll probably be able to post a hologram version of the
failed joint image that I'll create with the MRI machine that I'll build
with my 3D printer array.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izQB2-Kmiic