On 1/14/18 4:02 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jan 2018 11:02:00 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/13/2018 9:43 PM, Michael wrote:
On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 9:06:05 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jan 2018 16:21:56 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 7:04:56 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 5:42:02 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 6:07:52 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 3:10:56 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm trying to joint some 1 x 8 poplar on my router table so I can glue up
a panel. Each piece is 36" long. I have the out-feed fence 1/16" proud of
the in-feed fence.

I understand that you are supposed to keep pressure on the out-feed fence
but I can't seem to keep even pressure as I move the board along. At 36"
long I have to move my hands and when I do, I get a bump in the jointed
edge. I tried to clamp 2 feather boards to the table on the out-feed side,
but I'm still getting 2-3 bumps on the jointed edge because of hand
movement.

Neither fence nor the table is long enough to use push paddles for the
entire 36". Is that part of the problem?

Is there any way to get rid of the bumps so I can do a gap free glue-up?

I have had good results clamping an aluminum straight edge to the top of the board and running a router along the side with a longish bit. I don't think I'd want to try using the router table for this purpose.

Best of luck.

That is an option and may be my next step. However, jointing on a router
table is fairly common. I suspect my long boards relative to the fence
may be the issue. I'm fine most of the time, but all it takes is a just
a little less pressure on out-feed fence to cause the bump.

https://derbydad03.imgur.com/all/

See here for one of many vids on jointing with a router table.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6nql7mlSOo

I am curious. Are you not able to glue from the table saw rips?

It is my understanding that the best glue-ups come via this process:

1 - Joint one edge to make it perfect straight and square
2 - Rip the board parallel on the TS with the jointed edge against the fence

2a - Make sure you've used your Glue Line Rip blade.

3 - Very lightly joint the ripped edge to remove any saw marks.

Nope. No saw marks needed. See 2a (above).

My table saw leaves a very clean edge, but my router table leaves a edge
that is buttery smooth.

Not the best for a glue up.

I wondered about that as well. A really smooth surface won't soak up the glue as well and you could squeeze out too much when clamping.


There is a lot of back and forth on this. Typical yellow/wood glue is
not a good gap filler and works best with a minimum of product in the
joint. Tooth marks create gaps.
Additionally there is a lot of back and forth talk on starving a joint
by squeezing glue out of it. Glue starvation as it is often called is
when there is no or not enough glue on the surface to begin with not
because you had squeeze out. You get squeeze out because there was too
much glue in the joint to begin with. If you don't get squeeze out you
have no indicator that the joint is tight. I have never had a joint
fail because of too much clamping pressure and causing too much glue to
squeeze out. Remember, a quality glue joint line is one that is almost
invisible.

I don't think the issue is tooth marks (there shouldn't be any). The
issue is the "polished surface". The glue has to have something to
bite into. A polished surface doesn't work. Try using Titebond on
glass.


That is simply not true and a completely apples to oranges...
well, no, actually a wood to glass comparison.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com