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DerbyDad03 DerbyDad03 is offline
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Default Jointing On A Router Table - Can't Keep Even Pressure

On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 12:20:24 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/13/2018 11:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/13/18 10:15 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jan 2018 20:05:06 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 10:06:05 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jan 2018 16:21:56 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 7:04:56 PM UTC-5, Michael
wrote:
On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 5:42:02 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03
wrote:
On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 6:07:52 PM UTC-5, Michael
wrote:
On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 3:10:56 PM UTC-6,
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm trying to joint some 1 x 8 poplar on my router
table so I can glue up a panel. Each piece is 36" long.
I have the out-feed fence 1/16" proud of the in-feed
fence.

I understand that you are supposed to keep pressure on
the out-feed fence but I can't seem to keep even
pressure as I move the board along. At 36" long I have
to move my hands and when I do, I get a bump in the
jointed edge. I tried to clamp 2 feather boards to the
table on the out-feed side, but I'm still getting 2-3
bumps on the jointed edge because of hand movement.

Neither fence nor the table is long enough to use push
paddles for the entire 36". Is that part of the
problem?

Is there any way to get rid of the bumps so I can do a
gap free glue-up?

I have had good results clamping an aluminum straight
edge to the top of the board and running a router along
the side with a longish bit. I don't think I'd want to
try using the router table for this purpose.

Best of luck.

That is an option and may be my next step. However,
jointing on a router table is fairly common. I suspect my
long boards relative to the fence may be the issue. I'm
fine most of the time, but all it takes is a just a little
less pressure on out-feed fence to cause the bump.

https://derbydad03.imgur.com/all/

See here for one of many vids on jointing with a router
table.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6nql7mlSOo

I am curious. Are you not able to glue from the table saw
rips?

It is my understanding that the best glue-ups come via this
process:

1 - Joint one edge to make it perfect straight and square 2 -
Rip the board parallel on the TS with the jointed edge against
the fence

2a - Make sure you've used your Glue Line Rip blade.

3 - Very lightly joint the ripped edge to remove any saw
marks.

Nope.Â* No saw marks needed.Â* See 2a (above).

My table saw leaves a very clean edge, but my router table
leaves a edge that is buttery smooth.

Not the best for a glue up.

So you're saying that jointing with a router should be avoided?

No, just that a table saw, properly set up, is good enough.

Why are there so many articles and videos from so many sources
detailing the technique?

I have no idea.Â* Maybe because if all you have a hammer, the entire
world looks like a screw?

However, the point I was trying to make was that a glass-like
surface may not be best for a (wood) glue joint.


There are so many articles because people don't have decent table saws
nor blades.
He's right.Â* A great rip blade and properly tuned table saw are all you
need.


yeah!


I just "jointed" some boards with a freshly sharpened 24 tooth rip blade.
When "joined", the "joints" look good. ;-)

I'm going to go with them for the ~18" wide top for my base cabinets. 2
seams. They will be screwed to supports inside the cabinet (and painted)
so if the joints ever fail, the panels will be easy to replace.

It's a learning experience.