On 1/13/2018 10:05 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 10:06:05 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jan 2018 16:21:56 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 7:04:56 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 5:42:02 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 6:07:52 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 3:10:56 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm trying to joint some 1 x 8 poplar on my router table so I can glue up
a panel. Each piece is 36" long. I have the out-feed fence 1/16" proud of
the in-feed fence.

I understand that you are supposed to keep pressure on the out-feed fence
but I can't seem to keep even pressure as I move the board along. At 36"
long I have to move my hands and when I do, I get a bump in the jointed
edge. I tried to clamp 2 feather boards to the table on the out-feed side,
but I'm still getting 2-3 bumps on the jointed edge because of hand
movement.

Neither fence nor the table is long enough to use push paddles for the
entire 36". Is that part of the problem?

Is there any way to get rid of the bumps so I can do a gap free glue-up?

I have had good results clamping an aluminum straight edge to the top of the board and running a router along the side with a longish bit. I don't think I'd want to try using the router table for this purpose.

Best of luck.

That is an option and may be my next step. However, jointing on a router
table is fairly common. I suspect my long boards relative to the fence
may be the issue. I'm fine most of the time, but all it takes is a just
a little less pressure on out-feed fence to cause the bump.

https://derbydad03.imgur.com/all/

See here for one of many vids on jointing with a router table.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6nql7mlSOo

I am curious. Are you not able to glue from the table saw rips?

It is my understanding that the best glue-ups come via this process:

1 - Joint one edge to make it perfect straight and square
2 - Rip the board parallel on the TS with the jointed edge against the fence

2a - Make sure you've used your Glue Line Rip blade.

3 - Very lightly joint the ripped edge to remove any saw marks.

Nope. No saw marks needed. See 2a (above).

My table saw leaves a very clean edge, but my router table leaves a edge
that is buttery smooth.

Not the best for a glue up.

So you're saying that jointing with a router should be avoided?

Why are there so many articles and videos from so many sources detailing the technique?


Many articles and videos are simply some one repeating what they saw or
heard, right or wrong. Joining with a router table is much like hand
nailing with nail gun nails. It can be done but is it the preferred or
best way to do it?

Why does a jointer work better than using a router table to join boards?

To begin with "mass", the jointer is heavy and absorbs vibration and is
typically all iron so that it does not flex. The router table is pretty
much light weight by comparison and not as stiff.

When you are joining on a jointer you use the weight of the material to
help hold the work against the cutter and indexing surfaces. Not to
mention it is easier to push down vs. sideways like on a RT. And you
can use your body weight to pus down on the work as it goes through a
jointer. Your weight is not used to keep the work against the cutter on
a router table.

One more thing on you technique that may not have been covered. When
you are running the work on the RT are you straightening the convex edge
of the board? If not you will be changing feed direction all through
the cut if the fence on both sides is not as long as the work.