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Clare Snyder Clare Snyder is offline
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Default Need help INTERPRETING these test results police cruiser SAE J866a Chase Test

On Thu, 11 Jan 2018 02:47:38 -0000 (UTC), Mad Roger
wrote:

The scientific question is how do we correctly interpret why EE pads seem
to outperform FF pads in this police cruiser study done in 2000?
https://www.justnet.org/pdf/EvaluationBrakePads2000.pdf
https://www.justnet.org/pdf/Copy-of-...port-Draft.pdf

In another thread today, the topic was discussed on how to intelligently
select friction materials for replacement brake pads and shoes.
https://s18.postimg.org/wqilqasdl/to...n_material.jpg

That discussion hinges on a scientifically valid interpretation and
understanding of the utility of the "friction codes" printed on every brake
pad and shoe in the USA:
AMECA Compliance List of Automotive Safety Devices:
Friction Material Edge Codes(TM), May 2011
http://safebraking.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/AMECA-List-of-VESC-V-3-Brake-Friction-Material-Edge-Codes-May-20112.pdf

A general summary of which is listed below:
http://faculty.ccbcmd.edu/~smacadof/DOTPadCodes.htm
https://netrider.net.au/threads/unde...ratings.88551/
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-...ad-technology/
etc.

The scientific question is how do we correctly interpret why EE pads seem
to outperform FF pads in this police cruiser study done in 2000?
https://www.justnet.org/pdf/EvaluationBrakePads2000.pdf



The engineer's enigma.

And that's with "genuine" parts (we will "ass u me")

Now google "counterfeit brake parts" - or just "counterfeit auto
parts" - and you will see how big a problem parts counterfeiting is
world wide, and why those ratings stamped onthe brakers do not
NECESSARILLY mean ANYTHING.

That's why I say buying known brand parts from a trusted supplier is
the FIRST step in getting good parts.

Assuming coefficient of friction IS the main quality you want in
brakes - which for me it most definitely is NOT.

I want quiet brakes that respond smoothly both hot and cold, last for
a good length of time, and do not destroy my rotors/drums.
On disc brakes I want pads that don't dust excessively, and the dust
does not attack the finish on my alloy rims or wheel covers.
I want brakes that do not fade excessively, and that willprovide more
than adequate braking in real world conditions.

When I installed oversized tires on my Ranger, brake effectiveness
deteriorated significantly - with the same brake pads and rotors.
I'm no engineer - but it was not hard to determine the problem was a
problem of leverage - the big wheels were exerting more foot-lbs of
torque to the brake - and the answer was bigger rotors - NOT different
brake pads - or even bigger brake pads. Just move the brake pads 10%
farther from the axle, like the larger wheels moved the road contact
area about 10% farther from the axle, and the brake force was
re-ballanced.