"DaveG" wrote in message
news:lkrxb.128018$Dw6.561560@attbi_s02...
"Cletus Milsap" wrote in
message
...
First I got a permit. Was not too tough. And have a call in to PG&E to
talk to an inspector about requirements and the like. What I need is a
step by step by someone who does this routinely. What's next?

I had conflicting bids from electricians on the upgrade. Some said -
$1200
to $1500. When they had found out the main power is coming in from the
bottom, they just laughed and said "All you need is the panel, Cletus."
The
present panel is a single panel with the meter on the top part and the
breakers under it. Got the Spa wired to 220V on a bridged 40 amp
breaker.
The rest is small potatoes. 20A breakers running to simple outlets and
the
like. I was told by Home Depot, I need a separate breaker for the Spa,
located 6' or less from the Spa, and that the way it is in the main box,
is
a violation. Ugh. (That'll be tough, as the Spa is on the Patio, away
from
the wall by 15' or so.)

I'm willing to buy the box for that as well though.

I need to be pointed to a step by step, or if it's not too much
trouble,
post one here. I'd like to be clear on the steps to take.

Can I surface mount the 125A box? The present one is recessed into the
wall. The box I was looking at requires a BIG hole! I'd like to just get
the wires in on the bottom, and cover up the present little hole with
the
big box.

If the people at Home Depot told you that your disconnect must be 6' or
closer to the spa, run, do not walk, away from that place. You were
grossly
mis informed.
For you spa to meet current code, you must have a GFCI breaker protecting
the power to the spa. You can put this GFCI breaker in your main panel if
you want to. A GFCI breaker is rather expensive, though, at maybe $80 or
more, depending on the brand of breaker you need. This breaker can go in
your main panel if you want.

I don't believe this is always the case. If the spa has no underwater light,
and this is a branch circuit and not a feeder, then a GFCI is not required.
Its always a good idea, but not required. The rest of DaveG's information is
correct -- spa disconnect must be no closer than 5', but must be within
sight of the tub (which means 50' or less and you can see it).

As far as a step by step process:

1. Check with your power utility to determine their requirements for
electrical services. Mine has a web site where this document was located.
Much utility stuff is not regulated by the NEC, so you won't find it in the
NEC code book.

2. Is your underground conduit sufficiently large to accomodate the wires
you need. I think you'll need a 1.25" or 1.5" conduit, but the utility will
regulate this.

3. Evaluate your existing panel and the wire lengths of the circuits coming
in. Will they reach their proper location in the new panel? Should the panel
be mounted higher, lower, or the same?. Can you meet the meter height
restrictions while allowing most of the wires to reach the proper bus? You
can wire nut in the panel, but it is discouraged.

4. Evaluate your grounding system. Do you have a metal water pipe in contact
with the earth for 10' or more? Do you have a ground rod or two? What size
wire is connected to your water pipe and ground rods (if you have them)?

These steps are what you need to evaluate in order to determine what the
next steps are. Once you've installe the meter main combination panel, the
utility may need to upgrade your transformer and/or service lateral wires to
your house. This may or may not cost you money.

A surface mount panel is allowed, but look at where the wires must come in
and out of the panel. Generally, each cable should go through its own hole
with a clamp. Using a huge hole with a large NM cable clamp to hold all your
existing circuit wires is not usually permitted, but you could ask your
inspector if this saves a lot of effort. I'd plan on removing some siding on
each side of the panel and mount it in the wall like the old one. Or, use
the existing panel as a junction box and mount the new one next to it. This
would be ugly, but workable.

--
Mark
Kent, WA