On 1/2/2018 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 2, 2018 at 8:21:13 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 7:03 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 7:02 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 9:56 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've started building the base cabinet for SWMBO's kitchen bookcase
project.
The base cabinet will be 33" wide by 32" tall, with an ~50 book case
on top. I'm using 3/4"
(nominal) Poplar plywood for the cabinet boxes and book cases. The
base cabinet doors will be
shaker style overlay doors, like these (just doors, no drawers)
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KEKkDdQn3cE/hqdefault.jpg
I've been reading about face frame widths and 2" seems to be a common
size. I know nothing
about the Euro style concealed hinges, but I assume that I need to
factor them into the face
frame and door design. The plan was to use 3/4" (actual) poplar for
the face frames and doors.
Everything will eventually be painted.
I'm looking for advice, sources, steps, etc. regarding the hinges and
face frames. This is one of
those "I don't know what I don't know" situations.
Thanks for any and all input.
With the style Blum Euro hinges I use I never really consider the face
frame width dimensions.
Use the size face frame that looks good with the doors and drawers
closed.* Got Sketchup?* ;~)
I use face frame euro hinges that mount on the "EDGE" of the face
frame stile.* I have used surface mount Euro and those are a PIA, IMHO
so are the carcass mounted Euro hinges.
I buy these in lots of 50 to get better pricing, still this place has
good prices for lesser quantities.
https://www.wwhardware.com/blum-comp...g-hinges-b038n
I can discuss a number of variables but would not want to bore you
with details that might not pertain to you.
FWIW I always use the 1/2" overlay screw on hinge.
ONE MORE thing. Euro hinges typically use a 35mm/1-3/8" flat bottom
hole in the door and they must be accurately placed from the edge of the
door. Do you have the capability of doing that? A DP is necessary IMHO.
Addressing all of your points here...
"Got Sketchup? ;~)"
OK...I deserved that. ;-) "Someone" sent me a set of drawings that
I've dabbled with but have not spent nearly enough time on.
Sketchup, any drawing will show you the proportions better than simply
calculating a number in your head. Typically I like the outer exposed
perimeter of the face frame to appear wider than the portions between
doors and drawers. I also like for the exposed outer face frame width
to be between 1/2 to 2/3 the width of the doors and drawer frame parts.
"I buy these in lots of 50 to get better pricing, still this place
has good prices for lesser quantities. (wwhardware)"
I'm waiting on my (your) heavy duty levelers from them as we speak. I'll
check out their hinges too. I think I want soft close but not sure yet. The
doors for this unit will be practice for the 20 other doors I plan to make
for the rest of the kitchen.
I have never been a fan of soft close doors, IMHO they can cause undue
stress on the face frames if "forced" to close faster than their delay
mechanism would normally allow. That may of may not be a valid point
but it is what I think every time I close a soft close door.
If the door is solid enough, read that as the panel does not rattle when
closing normally, soft close adds little noise control. I have 3/16"
glass in our pantry doors and those doors are adjusted so that there is
no slap sound when they close. The glass is tight and the door bottom
and top strikes the FF at exactly same time. I get a light sound
similar to a "timpani" in the distance.
"I always use the 1/2" overlay screw on hinge."
A 1/2" overlay was my plan.
OK, and normally with that hinge the door is 1" wider and taller than
the opening.
"35mm/1-3/8" flat bottom hole...A DP is necessary"
Not a problem, just need to buy the bit. Of course, I could chisel out
square holes and then cut rounded corner fillers on the band saw. ;-)
All set! However, I drilled hundreds of holes with a typical Forstner
style bit with a shank about 3~4". Several years ago I bought a Rockler
carbide bit for that purpose and it has a shank about 1" long. I wish
it had the longer shank for deeper holes. The Rockler bit is pretty
much suited for drilling hinge holes and that is about it.
"I can discuss a number of variables but would not want to bore you
with details that might not pertain to you."
As I said in my OP, this is one of those "I don't know what I don't know"
situations. Therefore I don't know what variables might or might not pertain
to me. In any case, I doubt I'll be bored with any details you wish to
discuss.
FWIW my FF's are wide enough to allow for about 1/4"~1/2" to extend past
outside the cabinet carcass. PLUS 3/4" for the Carcass side panel to
dado into the back side of the FF. PLUS 1/2" to 3/4" on the opposite,
inside, of the carcass side panel The 1/2" to 3/4" on inside allows for
a same thickness piece of plywood to fill the gap between in the inside
edge of the FF and the cabinet panel. This allows slides to have a
solid mounting plate even with the edge of the opening.
Notice that inside drawer opening detail here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
And the outer detail here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
And how the carcass side panel fits into the grove on the back side of
the FF here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
One more example of another cabinet.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
Let me know if you have any other questions.