On Sat, 30 Dec 2017 20:50:36 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/30/17 7:16 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 30 Dec 2017 16:28:16 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, December 30, 2017 at 6:29:00 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/30/17 5:13 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 30 Dec 2017 16:48:00 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/30/17 4:37 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 30 Dec 2017 15:11:07 -0700, Just Wondering
wrote:

On 12/29/2017 10:57 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
What is the theory behind levels?

I've heard that carpenter's are more precise than those
used by bricklayers.

I have examined the ones we have here and there is no
indication as to precision on either so the only way to
tell would be the mortar stains on one of them...

Use it to "level" a board, then put a cup filled with
water on the board. The cup will confirm whether the
board is level.

Just put it on something level (e.g. another level), then
flip the level end for end and top for bottom. If it
doesn't read level after any of the steps, throw it as far
as possible and start over (with another level).


Doesn't really have to be level. If it hits the line or is
the same distance from the line when flipped, it's level.

True, it's just easier if it's level. Comparing it to another
level makes it so you don't even need a fixed place to test
(sometimes difficult in a store).


Tell me about it. I like HF but I need to test their levels. I
have a 6 footer from there and it's too cheap not to buy, but I
had to go through about 7 of them before I found one that was
acceptable. Not level, acceptable.


A level itself isn't level...unless it's laying on something
level.

If you use a level to compare against, it doesn't matter that the
(test) level is level (see above) or even that it's a good level, it
just needs to be somewhat close to being level and, of course,
repeatable.


It's not going to help at the store, but I make a habit of having the
front of my workbench be perfectly level and perfectly flat on the front
edge. It's nice to be able to quickly check a level you dropped and to
be able to quickly check an edged board without using a held
straightedge against it.

Good point and something worth considering in the future. My benches
are on wheels, so it's not possible to (keep) the front level. I'll
have to check them for straightness. I can use my saw table for that,
if needed, though.

The long, perfectly straight front edge also makes it a quick task to
check squares for square using the mark and flip method.

The instructions for my RAS showed how to do this as a setup step.
Works well.