DIYbanter - View Single Post

-MIKE-

On 12/23/17 11:58 PM, wrote:
-MIKE-

Great post! Lots of good information there. Not much to improve on
there, but would like to add a couple more thoughts.

One of the the methods I change about 20 or more years ago is how I
do scarf joints. First, I don't cut them at 45 degrees. When we
went from soft pine to hard pine, the 45s were harder to make with
their feathered edges. Inconsistencies in molding thickness made it
hard to get a consistent joint. For production work, the home
stores and now almost all lumber yards carry that super hard,
brittle, finger jointed crap that can be different not only in
thickness, but in profile. Enter the 30 degree joint.

I'm not sure when or why I went to 30degree scarfs, but I did a long
time ago, mostly for the same reasons you mention. 30 is easier to cut
and line up.
Another reason for 30 over 45 is that a 30 degree miter will shrink less
so the joint will be less noticeable when it opens.

Don't know why it took me so long to start doing that with trim as
when I was a house framer we got rough cedar delivered for trims,
fascia, etc., that was all different widths. That was my solution.

I use 30 degrees on all scarf joints, including crown molding. If
one side of your joint is a little thinner, slip it under the
adjoining piece and pull it back until it matches. Never looks right
with a 45, but closer to a box joint doesn't reflect the difference
as much.

I never nail through the joint itself on trims whether it is a 90
degree miter or a scarf. Trim wood is too brittle and splits too
easily these days. On a scarf joint I only nail the lap side, and
then away from the joint as far as possible. When dealing with a
tougher install due to irregular walls, I mark the studs at the
joints so I can catch a stud with a nail that is put in at an angle,
but away from the joint.

I got in the habit of not nailing the underneath piece, too, because
nailing it always seems to pull it too far against the wall on one side
making it difficult to get a good seem. This usually happens at the
bottom of base where the trim wants to pull against the sole plate at
the sheetrock gap. Yeah, you could shim, but then that might push the
bottom out and you have the same problem.

If I am still doubtful of joint integrity and its ability to hold, I
usually have a cartridge of PL400 in the caulk gun. A couple of
"Hershey Kisses" on each side of the joint and an X nail pattern
will certainly secure it. I keep a cartridge of PL400 around when I
am trimming as on small pieces I don't nail. Little 2,3,4 inch
pieces, or pieces that are hard to nail are simply glued in. Since me
or my company is always doing the painting, I appreciate not having
to fill fiddly little pieces that have cracked or have nail holes I
can't easily fill to make them go away.

I used to use plain old hot glue for joints. I switched to CA glue a
few years back, but those joints can pop loose after curing, when you
shoot them.
I saw this product at the last remodeling show and I'm thinking of
getting it and switching to it for most trim jobs.
https://www.fastenmaster.com/videos/flex-hot-melt-construction-adhesive.html
It's VERY impressive and useful. Not cheap, but I think it would pay
for itself on the first job.

If there is no carpet, or if I am putting on a shoe molding, when I
put on base I shoot the bottom of the trim straight into the sole
plate about 1/2" above the floor (no caulk/putty), and shoot into
the studs using my 18ga brad nailer with 2" brads. If the studs are
on 24" centers I shoot three brads per stud, if 16" o.c. then only
two. If I am putting on thicker trim like the 3/4"X8" that is popular
I use my 16ga straight trim gun or my 15ga angle trim gun that shoot
the equivalent of an 8d. Again, since me or mine are usually
painting as well, I like as few and as small of nail holes as I can
get.

Personally, I don't see any reason to hand nail unless it is a piece
or so. The wood we get today is so poor that it splits like crazy,
and so when I hand nail I drill pilot holes with the trim on the saw
horses before nailing. OTOH, you can get a pretty decent 18ga brad
gun from Harbor Freight from time to time for only $15. Brad nailing
sure helps keep the time spent and the frustration of broken trim
down.

Robert

I probably should get an 18ga nailer.... wait a sec.
Hilarious! I am not kidding... as I was typing that sentence, I
remembered that I have a brand new Porter Cable nailer that came "free"
with the little pancake compressor I got for $99 a few years back. I
just went out to the shop to what gauge it is and sure enough, it's an
18ga. It's still wrapped in the cardboard sleeve.

It's amazing the difference in size between 16ga and 18ga. I used an
18ga at a friends house, helping him with a project. I think he got the
same deal in Bostich or something.
You wouldn't think it's that much, but you're right, the holes are much
smaller for putty and they don't split as much.

Merry Christmas!

--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com