On 12/21/17 2:54 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Wed, 20 Dec 2017 09:16:37 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:
On 12/20/17 9:12 AM, Leon wrote:
On 12/19/2017 8:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/19/17 6:29 PM, John McGaw wrote:
On 12/19/2017 7:10 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
air stapler will do the job but the look is not so good
brad nailer might be the best way to go
has anyone here tried a palm nailer to do baseboard
I've used standard finish nails over the decades but have recently
used 16-gauge brads from a gun more and more. They work fine as long
as the wall is straight, the trim is straight, and you hit solid
substance inside the wall -- they just don't have the ability to
pull wayward parts together and hold well. I'll even admit to using
a grabby construction adhesive in some projects and just counted on
the brads to hold until it set. Just don't try to take things apart
later...
My guns shoot 16ga instead of 18ga.Â* The thicker wire and bigger head
make for very good holding and pulling power.
As with manually driven finish nails, you still need good technique.
The same tricks you can use with manually hammering finish nails can
also be used with a nail gun.
Shoot the nails in at slightly different angles,Â* this prevents the wood
from being able to pull straight off the nails.
That's one of the tricks! :-)
Can you share more? Please?
To start off with the above... shooting two nails at angles to form an X
or V is also a way to attach trim to sheetrock where there is no stud
available.
As with manual hammer nailing, you can drive two or more nails close to
one another in order to pull a board closer to the surface to which it
is being attached. If you're putting trim on a wall that is bowed or
whatever, you drive one nail which holds the piece, then another close
to it which will push it a little closer, then drive another which
pushes it further. Usually, when you start this process, the head of
the first nail gets revealed above the face of the trim. You can then
use a nail-set with a hammer and manually nail each nail in until the
trim piece is flush. Do NOT use angled nailing during this process.
You can angle nail once it's flush to anchor it.
Nail perpendicular to the grain to avoid splitting. If it's possible to
see the grain orientation at the end of a board, try to nail across the
grain, instead of parallel to it.
Use a shim or other thing piece of wood to rest the nail gun tip on to
avoid marring the surface of the wood. This can also be used to leave
the nail proud of the surface for temporary nailing. The scrap wood
keep the nail from being countersunk. You break off the scrap leaving a
nail head which can be pulled. I do this a lot when hanging crown to
hold a long section up on the wall, while nailing one end. Once the end
is secured, I move down and pull the temporary nail to finish the rest.
A few times, I've actually hit the right spot with the temp nail and
didn't have to take it out. :-)
Orient the nail to prevent boomeranging. Every flat wire brad nail had
a wide and narrow side. In hardwoods, they have a tendency to curve
left or right (often traveling with any curve in the grain) and turn
90degrees or more. I've seen 2-1/2" brads do a complete 180 and punch
out the same side they went in. In combination with the above tip about
shooting across the grain, you should try to have the wide side of the
nail perpendicular to the grain. Like a thin piece of wood or metal,
it's easier to bend on the wide side.
When working with very hard woods like white oak, you can lubricate nail
gun nails just like separate manually driven nails. You can lube an
entire clip with wax or spray or even the graphite from your pencil
lead. A little bit goes a long way.
Learn how to use the depth adjustment on your nailer. Use correct air
pressure.
When possible, shoot a few in scrap pieces to fine tune the settings.
I'm sure there are others I don't think about until I'm doing it. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com