On Thu, 30 Nov 2017 05:28:47 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
wrote:

snip

If we ran it out a lower votage the duty cycle would increase to a higher percentage which you claim is bester.

Correct and I do.

So isn't it better to have 220V than 240 for this POV.

It may only be 'better' if it stops it cycling when it otherwise
might.


snip

Correct, 'designed voltage range' so as to either not damage the unit
or it not perform reasonably expected.

So conencting it to yuor home ~240V would in theory be overrating the heater as it was design for running at 230V NOT 240V

No, as I said, the chances are it was *designed* to run at 240V, it's
just been *de-rated* on paper to allow it more compatibility over
Europe.

snip


So does this make it a more efficient heater ?

No. The efficiency will always be roughly the same. eg, ALL the energy
going into the unit *will* come out as heat.

Strange that they say 230V then isn't it.

See above.



But if it does..
back to the 9V battery so it definanlty won't ever overheat.

What do you think?

it's would depend on the battery whether it could, but I don't believe the heater would ever go into it's 'cycle' as you call it.

Agreed.

So does this make it a more efficient heater ?

No (see above). However, if you are talking about how 'effectively' it
will transfer it's heat to the room, then yes, depending on the
voltage applied.


I also think that runnin git at about 240V of possible would make it less efficiant than running it at 202V

It wouldn't affect the 'efficiency' (as it will always be ~100%
efficient) but that might indirectly affect it's ability to heat the
room (as) effectively.

Why would that be the case if the 'efficiency' was the same ?

Because you are trying to mix two different things. You have the
'efficiency' of how the rad converts electricity into heat and the
'effectiveness' of how the rad transfers that heat to the room.

remmeber the transformer installed lowers the voltage to increase 'efficiency'.

I don't need to remember that because I understand it so know that in
some (most) cases it will do no such thing.

The only time it might improve anything will be to reduce the running
costs of things like lights (if designed for 230V and running them at
240V might make them 'overbright') and possibly (refrigeration) pumps,
if being over driven.

Most SMPSU's wouldn't care less (and often automatically fun from 110
to 240V, 50 or 60 Hz) and pure resistive loads won't care either but
just take more or less time to heat your room or heat your tea.

snip

and thr biggest joke is someone claiming that 240V is the correct voltage to apply to a heater that says it's operational voltage is 230V.

Who said that then?

you're the one claiming that 240V is the 'standard' not me.

It is, in the UK (but not in your part of the UK apparently).


I took the tester home last night and I too got a reading of 238-239V
went down to 237-8 when boiling my kettle.

So not 202V then?

No that is our lab when we overrate the MCBs designed current carrying capacity by 8 amps.

You aren't 'overrating' the MCB (that you were told was an RCBO), you
are overrating the ring / supply. The RCBO is potentially working as
designed, the wiring in the lab less so if the voltage is dropping so
much.


Even the 51Hz went down to 50Hz

Not because of what you did alone it didn't.

At first glance I had no way of knowing that, soemtimes I;m just too observant I guess.

No, too blinkered to understand what is going on behind what you see.

snip


So, have you tried running one of the 2kW heaters on just the II
setting yet, just to see what happens?

Yes it runs at 1055W or there abouts depending on the input voltage remmeber that small point ?

I don't need to remember, because I understand. You don't understand.

So, my question was to be if you have run the rads continuously on the
NoII setting, do they still cycle?

Today it's running at 1003W at 208V in my office ambient temp 21C,

Whilst the few degrees increase from what you find in an unheated lab
and say 21 Degrees may not be enough to impact the rad cycling thing,
it still could. So, 'a good test' would be to set one rad up out in
the (cold) lab on setting II and seeing if it cycles at all. Also,
measure the temperature as you did before and see if it's holding
steady and at what temp?

*IF* it's sitting just under the overtemp stat trip level (98 DegC or
so you said) from cold up to the required (main stat) temperature then
that *is* a more effective solution at heating the lab and allowing
you to have more heaters on at the same time, than trying to run them
at 2kW (more heaters drawing less power and at a higher temperature
more consistently).


Cheers, T i m