On Tue, 28 Nov 2017 07:52:22 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
wrote:

snip

Not that substanbdard it's our standard. Only those that are non standard get 240V.

Strange that, just checked my power monitor and it's 239V

http://www.nottingham.ac.uk/etc/guid...timisation.php
We had to come in line with teh EU so that meant 230V, then managment needed promoting so they decide that they;d put in a system to save power and therefore money by installing an auto-transfomer which took us down to just below 220V.

Yup, substandard, especially under any decent load.


The point was it might be better to get what you can than not get what
you can't.

whatever that means.

Ok, for the hard of thinking ... (yes, that's you dave) it may be
better to get a consistent 1300W than an intermittent 700+1300W,
depending on the cycle duty cycle.

eg, If you get 2000W for 2 hours and then it drops to 700W for 2 hours
then the average will be 700W and 2000W for that 4 hour period. IF
putting it on heat level II(1300W) meant it didn't trip the overtemp
stat you might get 1300W continuously for the entire 4 hours.


At the end of the day, the trick would to be to keep the surface
temperature of the rad as close to the overtemp trip as possible but
without tripping.

No what we want is for it not to 'trip' as you call it.

That's just what I said.

But that's not what we want, we want the surface temp to be as low as possible,

Brilliant. (Considering what you have) You want the temperature
differential to be a HISH (not low) as possible to transfer the most
heat.

We don't want hot radiators we want the room to be hot preferably, that is what efficincy is about.

Bwhahahaha ... you really don't have an effing clue do you? Are you
anywhere near a science teacher to ask them to teach you all about
basic thermodynamics?



we want the heat to go into the air and heat the room that is the aim of the heaters.

No, really?

No suprise this has taken you so long.

And you don't even do sarcasm either I see. ;-(


Do yuo actually know what these things are used for ?

Yes, that's why I'm trying to teach you.

yuor the one that was suggesting I send working heaters back because you didn't know how they worked.

Liar.

Remember the sale you contacted who told you to send it back.

Liar.

snip

Well wheres this 1300W come from ?

Ok, you have a *Maximum* of a 2kW heater. It is made up of two
elements (nominally) a 700W and (therefore) and 1300W.

Yes two elements that depend on the voltage applied to them and teh time that voltage is applied gives an idea of how much heat they can produce.

No, really? (More sarcasm because you are getting desperate again).

snip

it won;t go to 1300W theres no such setting !

See above. The heaters has THREE power settings.

the 2nd of which comes out at 1025W NOT 1300W

Tw*t.

Did yuo forget the lower voltage and hence the lower current.

I forgot nothing because I wasn't taking actual values (that I have no
way of measuring) but with the concepts. You seem to have a big issue
dealing with either, especially when they aren't signposted.


because the 700W element isn't protected by the
overtemp stat and wouldn't be switched in.

So not much good then is it and I don't care whther or not the 700W is protected or not.

Someone might if it caused a fire.

Not my problem, that's the designers.

Whatever.

Exactly, we need to the power they are using where they are using in and not in some designer studio.

It was nothing to do with power but safety.

There are two elements and 3 power settings.

Brilliant. Are you some sort of 'parrot bot', just reiterating the
things other people who know say as if you came up with it yourself?



If you *just* have the larger element on and it still cycles on the
overtemp stat the wattage will go between ~1700 and 0.

The larger element i.e only elemnet II switched on you get ~1050W

No, *you* get that because of your substandard supply. 'Most people'
would get ~1300W (if it was plugged into a decent 240V supply).

Why would I get ~1300W, explain.

See above. And we aren't talking the dave fantasy world here, or the
dave 'this is what I measured on my underpowered supply', I'm talking
the potential range of settings on that heater.

I don't give a **** about the potential range we don't have 240V here it was changed years ago.

I know, you simply can't have a conversation without constantly either
changing the goalposts, lying or digging yourself into a hole.

So, once again, have you tried running the heater on level II (there,
no power mentioned so you can't squirm out of the question with more
of you childish BS) and if so, did it overtemp trip? Oh, and I don't
care if you understand the point or validity of the question, just
answer it please. (Yes / No).

Simple, basic, straightforward question that even you should be able
to answer.

Cheers, T i m