On Tuesday, 28 November 2017 14:59:14 UTC, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 28 Nov 2017 05:58:21 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
wrote:

On Tuesday, 28 November 2017 12:57:21 UTC, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 28 Nov 2017 04:28:55 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
wrote:

On Tuesday, 28 November 2017 10:41:11 UTC, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 28 Nov 2017 01:58:12 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
wrote:


Switch the NoII / 1300W position on *only* with your current
measurement plug in place, and the main stat on full, see if it cuts
back to 700W or *at all* or after the ~2 hours you mentioned
previously.

and that would prove what exactly ?

That the radiator could *continuously* run on the larger element on
it's own and therefore possibly give off more actual heat than when
it's cycling between the 700W and 2kW (nominally).

No point in selecting 1300W when you want full 2KW heating.

Except you aren't getting 2kW heating are you?

No, well done.

And that's not down to the heater but your substandard power feed (so
'Whoosh').

Not that substanbdard it's our standard. Only those that are non standard get 240V.

http://www.nottingham.ac.uk/etc/guid...timisation.php
We had to come in line with teh EU so that meant 230V, then managment needed promoting so they decide that they;d put in a system to save power and therefore money by installing an auto-transfomer which took us down to just below 220V.


The point was it might be better to get what you can than not get what
you can't.

whatever that means.


At the end of the day, the trick would to be to keep the surface
temperature of the rad as close to the overtemp trip as possible but
without tripping.

No what we want is for it not to 'trip' as you call it.

That's just what I said.

But that's not what we want, we want the surface temp to be as low as possible,

Brilliant. (Considering what you have) You want the temperature
differential to be a HISH (not low) as possible to transfer the most
heat.

We don't want hot radiators we want the room to be hot preferably, that is what efficincy is about.




we want the heat to go into the air and heat the room that is the aim of the heaters.

No, really?

No suprise this has taken you so long.







Do yuo actually know what these things are used for ?

Yes, that's why I'm trying to teach you.

yuor the one that was suggesting I send working heaters back because you didn't know how they worked. Remember the sale you contacted who told you to send it back.



I know that the overtemp protection which sets the heater back to 700W kicksm in whenn the fins of teh rad. reach about 98C and when it gets down to about 80C it goes back to the ~2KW or whatever you set.

I know. Remember, you don't have to remind me how it works because I
explained that to you.

No yuo were clueless.

Oh the irony.

Well wheres this 1300W come from ?

Ok, you have a *Maximum* of a 2kW heater. It is made up of two
elements (nominally) a 700W and (therefore) and 1300W.

Yes two elements that depend on the voltage applied to them and teh time that voltage is applied gives an idea of how much heat they can produce.






It would only go back to the ~2kW, not
'whatever you set'

If you''d set it to 1300W it's go back to that.

Exactly, not ~2kW then, as you said.

it won;t go to 1300W theres no such setting !

See above. The heaters has THREE power settings.

the 2nd of which comes out at 1025W NOT 1300W

Did yuo forget the lower voltage and hence the lower current.


because the 700W element isn't protected by the
overtemp stat and wouldn't be switched in.

So not much good then is it and I don't care whther or not the 700W is protected or not.

Someone might if it caused a fire.

Not my problem, that's the designers.

Whatever.

Exactly, we need to the power they are using where they are using in and not in some designer studio.
There are two elements and 3 power settings.



If you *just* have the larger element on and it still cycles on the
overtemp stat the wattage will go between ~1700 and 0.

The larger element i.e only elemnet II switched on you get ~1050W

No, *you* get that because of your substandard supply. 'Most people'
would get ~1300W (if it was plugged into a decent 240V supply).

Why would I get ~1300W, explain.

See above. And we aren't talking the dave fantasy world here, or the
dave 'this is what I measured on my underpowered supply', I'm talking
the potential range of settings on that heater.

I don't give a **** about the potential range we don't have 240V here it was changed years ago.




Just an option of 3 heat settings.

I, II & III

Duh!