On Fri, 24 Nov 2017 11:43:09 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 23-Nov-17 8:18 PM, OFWW wrote:
...

That makes sense. There are always trade offs. I was watching one
older guy teaching on planes and he wryly mentioned that using a
molding plane he could have a door done, or whatever, in less time
that it takes to setup a router with bits, test, and run. It sure make
you think.

One-off, perhaps, depending on just what is being done. The setup
becomes the ticket when doing a full kitchen-full of doors or the like.


Yes, I can see that.

Not that moulding planes and so on aren't useful to have and have their
place; I've a full set of the Stanley 95 irons plus any number of
made-for-purpose irons as well and it gets a fair amount of practice
yet. But it won't be likely to be first choice for anything but the
short run or the case of going into "full reproduction" mode rather than
"utilitarian".


I'd love to hang out and help in your shop.

One of my reasons for asking is that I am doing repairs to a couple
antique inherited pieces that I can pass on to my kids that are
interested in it, and also redoing a semi-antique secretaries desk
that was damaged and re purposing it to an entry way table, and that
would be a one off piece and so I'd like to put the finest edge on it
that I can. The existing piece except for where it was damaged was
almost glassy smooth.

The biggest difference other than being able to make custom shapes other
than the available store-boughten patterns is that no matter what, there
will be at least the slightest amount of "router wave" when done as the
router doesn't cut in a straight line but an arc. It can be minimized
by slower pass (at risk of burning, try doing cherry, for example) and
larger the diameter the better, but it's still there...


I hadn't noticed the cupping from a router before, or recognized it,
but I'd bet I would see it now! And as to your mention of Cherry
wood, I have been doing by best to minimize the burn with my limited
knowledge, since even the 10" table saw will burn it where I have less
problems on a 12" cross cutting chop saw. I'm making a wall mounted
tilting full length mirror for my wife.

That's why I tend to still use the full spindle shaper over the router;
the diameter is so much larger (plus, of course, the big surface table
is nice).

Which leads me to another question.

I've been considering making a new router tabletop, that swivels to
upright position of use as a shaper or 90 deg router, plus a jig for
doing mortises. It was feature on Woodsmith Magazine and seems like it
would be great for a guy like me working in his garage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4G9yx_62yI