On Sat, 11 Nov 2017 20:54:19 +0000 (UTC), harry newton
wrote:

He who is Clare Snyder said on Sat, 11 Nov 2017 15:19:54 -0500:

If the clutch engages late in the pedal uplift cycle, if I want the clutch
to engage sooner, do I move the master cylinder rod locknut stop point
toward the firewall, or toward the driver's foot?

How tall is the driver?


Neither. The adjustment needs to be made at the slave cyl end - if
adjustment is even possible. Most current vehicles are "self
adjusting" - in which case you need a new clutch.

Thanks for your advice, which I appreciate, and where I relize I provided
no pictures so everyone had to guess, which won't help so here are some
photos.

Here is the clutch slave cylinder:
http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/11/8.jpg

Here is a picture of the only adjustment there is in the clutch mechanism:
http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/11/5.jpg

To get rid of a spongy feel, I rebuilt the slave cylinder:
http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/11/4.jpg

And I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder:
http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/11/1.jpg

And then I bench bled both:
http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/11/2.jpg

Using high quality DOT 4 fluid:
http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/11/3.jpg

But the clutch now suddenly engages late in the pedal uplift cycle.

There is nothing that can be adjusted at the slave cylinder.

The only adjustment is the bolt that attaches the clutch pedal to the
clutch master cylinder.
http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/11/6.jpg

The only adjustment there is to twist the rod and lock it in place with the
locknut.
http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/11/7.jpg

But which way engages the clutch sooner?


Like I said.
Youhave a "self adjusting" hydraulic clutch. There IS NO height
adjustment. The pedal adjustment is toi be set so there is a small
clearance between the push-rod and the push rod seat of the M/C.
"shortening" the push rod will drop the pedal but will have no effect
on the clutch engagement.Your clutch is worn out

(retired auto mechanic speaking)