robobass wrote:


If you solder on a flat tab successfully, then you should be able to bend it over the shaft after it has cooled. It will be well annealed. If it breaks while you're trying to bend it, then you want to get a better bond anyway. A few tries at this will still be less work than all of this barrier treatment stuff.

FWIW, the correction fluid made a reasonably effective barrier. My choice
of soldering investment was less clever; I used spackling compound, which
seemed fine until the soldering was done, whence it became clear the parts
moved. Not disastrously, but enough to see. Not sure if the movement happened
during the soldering, or during the several days it had to dry out. Shortly
after the parts were set up the gap was less than half what it ended up at.

There are a couple photos at
http://www.zefox.net/~bp/drawerpull/

Thanks to everyone who replied!

bob prohaska