One thing on large irons - Black Beauty and such -
My dad was trained on them back in the day of making vacuum tubes by hand.

Use the rubber on the inside of the boot heel to coat the parts of an
iron (or work). The rubber keeps flux from running solder around the
3/8" diameter tip of the Black Beauty.

I have used it many a time and it works nicely - stinks a bit but heck
soldering rubber coated wire and some plastics stinks also.

I used to have a 300 watt but only have 150 now. My large 1" large iron
was used to solder on steel and Aluminum chassis. Large irons are there
to provide more HEAT and thereby last longer at a given temp.

A small iron gets hot but cools off on some work. Consider soldering a
copper roof.

Martin


On 10/15/2017 2:35 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 16:53:40 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
wrote:

whit3rd wrote:
On Friday, October 13, 2017 at 6:46:26 PM UTC-7, bob prohaska wrote:
I just broke a drawer pull...
If I can find something to coat the ring pull, so the solder
won't wet it, I think there's a decent chance of success.

There's a commercial product, Tix Anti-Flux, that should work.
That in concept is exactly what I'm looking for. Trouble is, they
say it's best with SO250 solder, which appears to be low melting
point and has no strength or other specification. Since the original
brass broke, I think silver braze will be necessary but I'll email
them and learn what I can.

Me, I just stay sloppy, and buff the excess off afterward.

Can't do that in my predicament; if the solder flows between
ring pull and plate there's no way to get it out.

Heat it up and shoot compressed air into the joint. Solder comes right
out. It however will retain a molecules thick layer of
solder.."staining" the metal.


Thanks very much for posting!

bob prohaska

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