=?iso-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?= wrote in
:

posted for all of us...



On Sat, 12 Aug 2017 13:03:47 -0400, wrote:

On 12 Aug 2017 16:15:42 GMT, KenK wrote:

Stormin' Norman wrote in
m:

would check the breakers, just-in-case. Doesn't cost a penny to
do
it and it might solve your issue.



They feel solidly on.

Pretty much eliminated that possibility. Measured voltage across
the two connections on the switch. 120 A/C. In on and off
positions. Seems to mean that the switch is definitely bad. The
voltage across the only two terminals should drop to 0 when the
switch is on. The switch should be a short circuit then.

Now it's a matter of buying a new switch at Walmart today and
getting ambitious wnough to locate the correct power breaker and
and brave enough to replace the switch.

Do you have a wire stripper? I like the flat ones with different
slots for different wire sizes. Note there is a hole in one of the
jaws. You use that to form the "U" to put under the terminal screw,
Stick the wire in and bend it around. Fast and works great. Go
around the screw the right way. (clockwise) with the end at 3 and
the standing part of the wire at 9 so tightening pulls the wire in.
Better nyet, buy a "spec grade"switch with back-clamp terminals. No
bending required. So simple a trained ape can do it properly, and you
are assured you are getting a reasonable quality switch, unlike the
"49 cent specials" from Home Despot. I believe the BORG actually does
carry the good stuff as well - - -.

I was just going to post this... My minimum is spec grade. I guess one
could go to Wallys for a switch but...

I picked up a Walmart $1.59 GE switch. Maybe I should reconsider and try
a good hardware store before I install anything.


--
I love a good meal! That's why I don't cook.