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posted for all of us...

On Sat, 12 Aug 2017 13:03:47 -0400, wrote:

On 12 Aug 2017 16:15:42 GMT, KenK wrote:

Stormin' Norman wrote in
m:

would check the breakers, just-in-case. Doesn't cost a penny to do
it and it might solve your issue.

They feel solidly on.

Pretty much eliminated that possibility. Measured voltage across the two
connections on the switch. 120 A/C. In on and off positions. Seems to
mean that the switch is definitely bad. The voltage across the only two
terminals should drop to 0 when the switch is on. The switch should be a
short circuit then.

Now it's a matter of buying a new switch at Walmart today and getting
ambitious wnough to locate the correct power breaker and and brave enough
to replace the switch.

Do you have a wire stripper? I like the flat ones with different slots
for different wire sizes. Note there is a hole in one of the jaws. You
use that to form the "U" to put under the terminal screw, Stick the
wire in and bend it around. Fast and works great. Go around the screw
the right way. (clockwise) with the end at 3 and the standing part of
the wire at 9 so tightening pulls the wire in.
Better nyet, buy a "spec grade"switch with back-clamp terminals. No
bending required. So simple a trained ape can do it properly, and you
are assured you are getting a reasonable quality switch, unlike the
"49 cent specials" from Home Despot. I believe the BORG actually does
carry the good stuff as well - - -.

I was just going to post this... My minimum is spec grade. I guess one could
go to Wallys for a switch but...

--
Tekkie