On Sat, 12 Aug 2017 10:54:59 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, August 11, 2017 at 8:53:52 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Aug 2017 16:15:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, August 11, 2017 at 2:31:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Aug 2017 13:01:41 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

My ceiling light in my bedroom conked out this morning, I grabbed a VOM and
removed the cover from the wall switch to see if it was working,
Unfortunately instead of the four connections I was expecting there were
only two, I assume the hot line in and out. Without access to the neutral I
can't use the voltmeter to see if the switch is working, I rashly assume
the neutrals are connected together on the back of the switch. Is there any
way I can check this switch without removing it?

If I decide to remove it how can I find the correct power breaker to turn
off since the light it feeds doesn't work. I can't just flip breakers until
the light goes off.

Suggestions - besides call an electrictian and spend a bunch of my sparse
money?

TIA

I can see that you need lots of education on house wiring and how to use
the meter.

Set the meter to check voltage (I am going to assume you are in a normal
house in the US). Place the leads on the terminals of the switch. Cut
the switch off and on. If there is any load (lightbulb) on the end of
the wires you should get a voltage with the switch on and no voltagw
with the switch on. If no voltage shows up either way, then cut off the
power to the circuit if you can find it. Use the ohm meter to check the
switch.

If you can not find the power to the switch ther is one more simplething
you can do. Find a drop cord. Plug it in any outlet near the switch.
As all neutral wires go to the smae place, you can use the neutral side
of the dropcord. Stick one meter probe in the neutral of the drop cord
and one on the hot side of the switch to make sure you have voltage. If
so, go to the oter side of the switch with that lead and turn the swithc
off and on. If by chance you stick the meter probe in the hot side of
the drop cord, you will either get no voltage or about 240 volts instead
of the nominal 120 volts.


All normal house wiring for simple lights connect the neutral to to
light socket and only break the hot wire if done correctly. They do not
usually break the hot and neutral wires on most things in the house.

Even simpler, since the safety ground and neutral are bonded, and all
boxes, by code, need to be grounded, just connect the voltmeter
between the grounded box and each terminal in turn.


Just because code *requires* something doesn't mean that the something is
in fact present. Do you, with 100% certainty, know that the OP's box is
grounded?

One must be live
at all times, the other will be live with the switch on, if the switch
is good.
That said, have you checked the light bulb??? (virtually)Infinitely
higher chance of the bulb spontaneously dying than the switch
No I don't - but with a high impedence (digital) voltmeter he doesn't
even NEED a ground Just touch the second lead of the meter with a
finger and you will get a reading (not neccesarily accurate) if there
is power. Amd you MIGHT feel a very tiny tickle - but not likely. The
current flowing through the voltmeter is virtually nil.

That's funny. You know, you are allowed to simply apologize.
SO sorry. Being a good Canadian I guess I should appologize for
everything I say - - - -