On 7/12/2017 10:30 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/11/17 12:16 PM, Leon wrote:
For those of you that have a Kreg pocket hole or like jig you may
recall seeing instructions, video, or demonstration of how to join
two pieces of wood, by their edges, with an angle other than 90
degrees.
Say you want to join the edges at a 45 degree angle. With normal
joinery you might bevel the edges to 22.5 degrees, maybe biscuit,
glue and clamp.
With pocket holes it becomes somewhat easier and stronger if you
simply bevel one edge at 45 degrees and leave the mating edge at 90
degrees. You simply build a 45 degree jig to set and hold the pieces
in place allow the 45 degree bevel piece to fit deeper so that the
back sides of both pieces join to a smooth joint.
After gluing and applying the screws remove and sand the point off of
the corner. This hides where the actual joint line is at and moves
it away from the actual corner. Clear as mud? Maybe not to
those that have actually built this jig and used it.
I was think about this jig and dreading to have to build another for
my current job. I need to join two pieces at a 69 degree angle. I
then had a thought, an instant bit of knowledge pop into my head and
I made this process much much easier and with out using a jig.
To clear things up a bit, a picture is worth a thousand words. The
link below shows a picture of the two pieces I joined with glue and
pocket holes. The picture also shows the "hidden joint" about 1/4"
away from where the pieces change angles and where you would normally
see the joint.
You normally need a jig to hold these pieces in place while gluing
and inserting the pocket hole screws.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/
Here is the picture that popped into my head and the firs step. Like
normal I cut the bevel that I needed, in this case 21 degrees. Next
I lowered the blade on my TS to 1/8" below the surface of that piece
of wood and moved the fence closer to the blade just shy of the width
of the blade. This is the result of those procedures. Notice
the small lip that resulted. Keep in mind also that with different
angles the lip will need to be larger or smaller. A scaled drawing
or a drawing program tells yo exactly how much to cut.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/
Here you can see how this comes together. The lip replaces the jig,
it holds the mating piece in just the right place with no need for
clamps or jigs when inserting the screws.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/
Parts in proper place, you see what needs to be sanded off. BTW This
picture was my first test of this method and I had not yet drilled
the pocket holes.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/
That's pretty cool!
I've often done the 45 on one with a 90 on the other thing, then sanded
off the point. Seems like it's easier to line up, clamp, and/or screw
and you don't have to worry about get perfect alignment.
But you're set-up takes it to a whole new level.
It is pretty much a no brainer. I did not practice on scraps, oh my!
Actually the piece was an inch or so oversized so I could fix a screw
up. But there is nothing simpler than lowering the blade and moving the
fence about 1/8" and running through again.