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Bob Minchin[_4_] Bob Minchin[_4_] is offline
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Default Supascrews and Twinqwik screws

newshound wrote:
On 5/16/2017 8:21 PM, michael adams wrote:
"Graeme" wrote in message
...
In message ,
michael adams
writes

Its sometimes possible to get away with using the wrong size, usually
accompanied by a crunching noise, a slipped driver and possible
swearing.

Which is exactly what I am trying to avoid. I don't really want to
buy a box or three
of 200s, then find they don't match the driver.
--
Graeme


You buy screws to match the job, and then choose the appropriate size
bit, if using a power screwdriver, or screwdriver, to fit the screw.


michael adams

...


Exactly. There are only three sizes, you should be able to tell the size
of the screwdriver bit at a glance. With a bit of practice you will be
able to recognise the screw heads too. And it is normally immediately
obvious if you have got the wrong one.

Incidentally, if you have much screwing to do, you might be impressed at
how good cordless "impact drivers" are. This is one random example

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-TD11...=impact+driver


Note that it does not include the battery or charger. I actually have
the 14.4 volt Makita, personally I would not consider any lower voltage
than that.

You should buy the tougher bits made for impact drivers, but they are
not all that expensive. The bits do wear out, but I find I damage screw
heads less often with these than with a conventional drill/driver. The
combination of power and controllability is really remarkable.

There is some price variation in screws. Trade people normally use the
more expensive brands such as Spax or Screwfix Turbo Gold or Goldscrews.
FWIW I normally use the cheapest (such as Quicksilver). Sometimes an
impact driver will snap the head off.

Most woodscrews these days are Pozidrive, but a few specialist types
come with Torx or hex (allen-key type) heads. The bits are not expensive.

With a bit more of a glance you can also tell the difference between
Philips and pozidrive bits.