On Tue, 02 May 2017 20:25:37 -0400, wrote:

On 3 May 2017 00:00:19 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2017-05-02, Jim Wilkins wrote:
wrote in message
...

[ ... ]

When the terminal smokes between it and the post you KNOW where the
problem is, and you KNOW the voltage drop will be very substantial.
(I'd bet 5 volts on a 6 volt system would be very close)

Smoke at the terminal could be from either the post or the cable
connection, I've had both go bad.

I can't see the battery when turning the key from the driver's seat
and need a voltmeter with long enough leads to rest it against the
raised hood. Actually I've needed a test lead long enough to reach
from the computer under the glovebox nearly to the left headlight,
when searching for a bad ground.

Well ... with the MGA, the key was not needed -- other than to
be turned on. (And it was easy to bypass the ignition switch at the
fuse block by moving a fuse from one pair of clips to be between both
pairs.)

Then, to crank (and you really don't need the ignition on anyway
if you are looking for where a high resistance point is in the
battery/starter system), you simply reach over to the starter contacts,
which are normally operated from the driver's seat by pulling a knob on
a flexible cable, and either pull on the collar connecting the switch
to the cable, or push on the part projecting from the switch. Purely
mechanical until you get to the contacts themselves. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.
From what I remenber the 9n is similar.From my recollection there is
a way tp activate the switch directly instead of through the
mechanical remote control. There is no solenoid, and the key doesn't
activate the starter.

Unless one adds one (should be fairly simple and inexpensive) to aid
in troubleshooting the ancient beasties.

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