On Tue, 2 May 2017 12:41:35 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 2 May 2017 07:07:02 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

That was one of my points. You can tighten the bolt 'til the cows
come home but if it isn't squeezing the post, it won't work. But
if
you have frayed wire at the terminal to cable connection, you're
losing current there and the terminal should be replaced.

If you can apply a load away from the battery, such as from the
frame
to the starter or its relay, a voltmeter will reveal any voltage
drops
across poor terminal connections. Several amps of charging current
may
be enough, too.

A headlight bulb draws around 5 Amps.
-jsw

When the terminal smokes between it and the post you KNOW where the
problem is, and you KNOW the voltage drop will be very substantial.
(I'd bet 5 volts on a 6 volt system would be very close)

Smoke at the terminal could be from either the post or the cable
connection, I've had both go bad.

I can't see the battery when turning the key from the driver's seat
and need a voltmeter with long enough leads to rest it against the
raised hood. Actually I've needed a test lead long enough to reach
from the computer under the glovebox nearly to the left headlight,
when searching for a bad ground.

Extension test leads are no problem, right?

That's why I've always loved Fords. Run a remote starter switch (or
short a screwdriver) across the start and hot terminals on the
solenoid and you're standing right there while the engine cranks over,
test equipment in hand.

--
Average # of people killed in mass shooting when stopped by police: 18.25
Average # of people killed when stopped by civilians: 2

Save lives: Keep Civilians Armed!