On Thursday, April 27, 2017 at 8:51:17 PM UTC-5, wrote:
OK. You're suggesting that I paint as much as possible to do in a day
(given space), then hang the next? Repeat...
The whole project is too much to paint and sticker. Even with a herd of saw horses, I don't do that. I just try to anticipate how much I can put up in a day. Paint at the end of the day, let it dry for several hours overnight, then the batch is ready to go first thing in the morning. Then each day of installation you can anticipate how much you will need for the following day and knock off the installation an hour early, pack the installation tools up, paint, clean your rollers, and you are done, ready for the next day.
Switching tasks is a time killer.
I've already bought a set of Gecko gauges.
Nice. Pretty high tech!
He also says to caulk the joint. The failed boards are done just like
that (except no flashing) but the caulk failed long ago. Hardie
recommends against caulk too. With the flashing behind it, is it
needed?
If you have a pretty close joint, planks in contact about half of the exposed facing after butting, then probably not.
But, welcome to the great debate. As noted earlier, Hardie has flip/flopped on this more than once. This latest installation pdf
http://www.jameshardiepros.com/James...hz10-us-en.pdf
that is the newest on the "pro" site, is from May 2016. Less than a year old. It clearly shows on their little graphic the word "caulking" used in the install details, the caveat in parenthesis is that you don't use caulking on ColorPlus (prefinished) product. The same installation bulletin also details on page 3 what kind of caulk to use, with a warning of application for one brand. A call to Hardie is not that helpful; they advise to caulk as needed, and now they advise on their installation differently in different climate zones.
Note too in that publication, that different from earlier versions that it does NOT recommend a space at the joints for caulking, but uses the chicken**** ambiguity of "install planks in moderate contact at butt joints". What is moderate contact?
Over the years, they have gone from requiring an 1/8" between the joints for caulking to as "as needed" policy. They use further weasel language to relieve themselves of some of the "caulk/no caulk" problem by warning to follow local building codes and lcally acceptable installation procedures. That way if the siding leaks they are covered at least in some instances. If your local ordinance or FHA/VA requires caulking and you don't, then Hardie voids that section of your warranty. If you caulk and it isn't required (merely suggested) and caulk fails, it is on the installer/you.
Over the years, with no clear guidance and no specification for the caulking, People used painter's caulks, silicone caulks, etc., all completely wrong for this application. Also, without adequate specification for the storage of this material at the yard, we go this stuff wet and it shrank a lot. Compounding that, latex materials don't stick well to wet products so although it looked good, the caulk didn't stick.
I am back to what I used to do and didn't have any failures. I have had to renail a couple of planks on the first job I did, but that is because I didn't understand how crucial it was to follow the nailing instructions. Changing my pneumatic nailer to a roofing nailer (since I always blind nail), fixed the spalling problem. What I do different now is to add the aluminum strip as flashing with a colored stripe down the middle, and add a small dollop, say marble size) of glue at the joints. I have a box of stainless nails that I used on rare occasion on a facing where a wall dips or bulges and the planking won't draw up tight.
So at the butts, I put up my metal flashing with the "next nearest color stripe" on it, put a small dollop of adhesive just OUTSIDE the flashing (far enough away that the glue won't touch the flashing when compressed), put up the siding (factory to factory edge only) until the touch, then nail it. If it is closed, I don't caulk. If it isn't, I will apply a good quality solvent based elastomeric caulk.
The idea of the construction glue, or whatever it was, holding the
bottom of the board is a keeper, too. That's another reason I'm
replacing mine. The bottoms are loose, particularly near the joints.
The boards are cracked around the nails. This way, there's no need
for nails below the lap.
That isn't a Hardie detail, but an installer detail. Half the size of a Hershey's kiss on each side is all you need, and a tube of PL400 will last for a few days. CHEAP insurance. While all the Hardie moves on the walls after installation, the joints are the weak points. And if you spall the backside accidentally, most of the time you don't know, and the damage manifests itself in the way you are seeing.
It was interesting to note that the "butt" joints weren't butted up
against each other. Makes sense, given that the stuff absorbs water.
It also points out how smart your spray can idea is, too. Spray paint
can be mixed to match any color can paint can. I have no idea what it
costs, though.
Krylon makes a rainbow of colors these days, so remember that IF the flashing in your joint is seen, it will be about 1/8" at most. My experience is that joints of well painted material don't open more than that. No need to have specially made paint for a sliver of aluminum that is back in the shadows with no immediately adjacent color to match with little light to get to it except morning and evening when the sun is more horizontal. If it is close, no one will see it. If it isn't, buy your paint early, cut the flashing and slather a paintbrush size stripe on the pieces and you have an exact match.
Robert