Check out :

http://www.lathe.com/

This is Logan Engineering - they made the lathes until the design was
sold and discontinued. So they make parts for the machine from time to
time. Have other parts as well.

Logan parts and maybe chucks. I bought a part and got it to fit my
machine (Sheldon) with a little machining one adaptor.

Martin - they have a newsletter.....

On 4/5/2017 9:44 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Nice machine. Some of us Know of the family that built it.

3/4" shaft ? wow that is large. Does it screw out of the head ? Many do.

If so then buy a Morse taper for it.

If you don't have the proper equipment it would be trivial for a pro
shop to do the job. If the shaft is forever on the head (doubtful) it
is a one time shot for the head. Wrong cut - trash the head.

Martin


On 4/4/2017 4:35 PM, Daniel Koller wrote:


Hi folks,

I have a machining question for the group. I have acquired a nice
boring head for a lathe tail stock. It has a smooth adjustment motion
with a big dial calibrated in mils and it would be a really nice
accessory for my 1952 Montgomery Ward / Logan 200 10" lathe.

However, the integral shaft of the head is 3/4" in diameter and
will not fit the Morse #2 taper of my tail stock. So, what can I do
about it?

I was thinking I should cut a Morse taper into the shaft. There is
plenty of diameter and length to do that, and it would allow for quick
swap-outs when I need it. I read through "How to Run a Lathe" and
browsed the various ways to cut a taper:
A) turn the compound to the desired angle and cut at an angle.
B) Offset the tail stock and hold the part between centers. Cut
straight.
C) Use a taper attachment.

I don't have a taper attachment, so C) is out. B) seems a little
iffy and I'd need to grind down a center to clear parts of the
dovetail integrated into the head. Also I don't trust how securely
the part can be held at the necessary offset to get the taper.

So, A) seems to be the best option. I can set the angle to better
than a degree by putting a micrometer on my compound and running it
along the side of a known good MT2 taper held in the lathe chuck.
...actually, I just calculated, if I get the compound parallel to the
desired taper by 0.5 mils over a 2" length, that's within 0.15 degrees
of the correct angle.

QUESTION 1: How accurate does this angle have to be to have a
good Morse taper? How smooth does the cut have to be? What are the
pitfalls to cutting a taper by rotating the compound?

And it appears that my boring head shaft is soft enough to scratch
with a hard steel cutting tool, so...

QUESTION 2: Do I have to grind the taper or can I cut it with a
carbide tipped turning tool?

I've never cut a taper before, and I need to get this one right to
make sure I don't screw up my boring head, so advice would be
appreciated!

Thanks,

Dan