On Thu, 06 Apr 2017 11:25:05 -0700, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Apr 2017 10:26:59 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Howdy,

Yes, this is sort of what I was thinking of doing to get the initial angle close.

Out of curiosity, if I can only get but so close to the angle, is it better for the male taper to be more conical or less conical than the female for the best fit?

Dan

SNIP

Mount something with a Morse #2 shank in the lathe, put a dial
indicator in the tool holder and see how well you can adjust the
compound angle to follow the Morse taper.
-jsw
SNIP
More conical, that way as the shank is forced into the socket the O.D.
of the socket can expand slightly to fit the shank. But really, it's
no big deal to get the taper correct. Jim's suggestion of indicating
an existing #2 morse taper shank should get you very close. For this
to work well though some care must be taken. First, indicate the taper
shank so that there is as close to zero runout as possible at both
ends. Then mount the indicator on the compound so that the tip is on
the exact center line of the lathe. Now you can set the angle using
Jim's suggestion. And when it comes time to turn the taper your
curring tool also needs to be set at the exact center line of the
lathe. If it is not you will not get the correct taper. I din't think
you should buy the adapter you wrote about. If you use it the boring
head will be hanging way out with a corresponding lack of rigidity. By
the way, why are you wanting to mount a boring head in the tailstock?
To set a center over in order to cut tapers?
Eric


It should be mentioned that many..many of the makers of such items
dont machine the entire body..but only a band about 1" wide on each
end..and turn the material in between undersize, so they dont have to
fight the entire length. Which makes a great deal of sense.

Gunner

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus