Daniel Koller wrote:



So, A) seems to be the best option. I can set the angle to better than
a degree by putting a micrometer on my compound and running it along
the side of a known good MT2 taper held in the lathe chuck.
...actually, I just calculated, if I get the compound parallel to the
desired taper by 0.5 mils over a 2" length, that's within 0.15 degrees
of the correct angle.

QUESTION 1: How accurate does this angle have to be to have a good
Morse taper?
Unfortunately, very. What you may have to do, and it is really painful, is
to get it as close as you can, grind the taper with whatever you can
(Dremel, die grinder, etc. mounted on compound rest) to get it smooth and
then test fit with a morse taper socket. Examine the dye and decide which
way to adjust the compound swivel. Then, this is the painful part, you have
to make infinitesimal adjustments to the compound angle and try again.

How smooth does the cut have to be?
Pretty smooth, or it won't grab.

What are the
pitfalls to cutting a taper by rotating the compound?
If the compound slide is worn, it may not travel in a straight line, leading
to a barrel rather than a cone.

And it appears that my boring head shaft is soft enough to scratch with
a hard steel cutting tool, so...

QUESTION 2: Do I have to grind the taper or can I cut it with a
carbide tipped turning tool?

Start with the carbide and get as close as you can, but the finish likely
needs to be ground.

Jon