On 2017-03-16, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-15, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-14, Jim Wilkins wrote:
This wi
https://www.amazon.com/12-Gauge-Sili.../dp/B0070RZXLW
The local RC hobby store and a discount store that sells car audio
cable carry larger sizes.
O.K. Not the same. The insulation is a lot thinner than the
wire gauge than what I was thinking about. It was about 16 Ga I
think,
and was good up to at least 45 KV -- maybe a lot higher. We used it
with the voltage multipliers we made to power three-stage image
intensifiers. (A lot more current capacity than needed, but good HV
insulation.
Its cut resistance seems low which makes it easy to strip. I deburr
all metal chassis edges to protect my hands so this wire should be
safe.
One of the things which made Teflon insulation a bad idea in
wire-wrap panels, were all of those square corners were lurking. :-)
That Signal Corps school ...
I wonder how they would have liked my 2.2K 2W carbon resistor
with color codes "Black, Black, Violet, Gold" :-) (RC42GF007J)
Q would have appreciated it.
I would hope so. :-) How about Miss Moneypenny?
[ ... ]
So -- both were found at the same time, and had the problem when
you got them?
Someone dumped several used appliances in the woods where I collected
firewood. After driving past them for a year or so I took a close look
and realized the two Maytag washing machines were similar to the one I
have, and loaded them in the trailer with my log hoist -- they weigh
200 lbs. I finally checked them out last summer when mine developed a
tub seal leak and found that one worked fine except that the rubber
tube to the fill switch had hardened and broken, so the water just ran
out onto the ground. That tube and the Maytag-specific drive belts on
the other one were fine but its timer and transmission were bad.
Obviously crying out to be combined into one fully working one,
and either a pile of parts, or one fully non-working one, depending on
who you wanted to give a hard time to. :-)
The symptom of an open Run wire was that the motor drew about 22A
when
it failed to start.
Hmmm ... series combination of the start cap and the run winding
resulting in quite low impedance at 60 Hz.
There's no cap, they use the start winding's resistance to create a
phase shift.
Oh! Tricky, and saving the cost of the start cap. :-)
If you replace the Maytag belt with one from a hardware
store it won't slip and the tub's inertia will keep the start winding
connected long enough to overheat it. I had the front cover off and
smelled the hot insulation before damage occurred
Good thing you caught it in time.
[ ... ]
The
Relative feature of my UT61E DVM was enough to cancel the lead
resistance to tell them apart.
Useful. My Fluke 27 can do that too, IIRC. But if I really
want good low resistance measurements, I use the rack-mount digital
multimeter from HP with 4-wire resistance capability. (Not very
portable, however. :-)
I use a lab supply set to 1.00A constant current. Then milliVolts
equal milliOhms.
I've used the same trick, set to a limiting voltage low enough
to not fry TTL ICs to find a fault in a card for a MITS Altair 680b (I
think that it was a memory card, but I don't remember for sure these
days.) The fault was a short between adjacent traces (5V and ground)
*under* the solder mask. The local vendor was trying to blame it on his
assembly practices (really well done, BTW), when it was in reality a
faulty board from the factory. (The Altair computers could be purchased
factory assembled or in kit form.) They had others to fix the Altair
8800 (Intel 8080 CPU), but I was the only one for the Altair 680b
(Motorola MB6800 CPU).
I had to scratch through the solder mask and the short to fix
it.
BTW -- the MC6800 had an undocumented instruction dubbed "HCF" (Hang and
Catch Fire) which tri-stated the data buss, and cycled the
address bus through all 64k addresses. Made it easy to spot
problems in address decoding. :-)
I can see the voltage drop along the 3/8" aluminum
tubing of a TV antenna, and know when I've scrubbed the connecting
screws clean. For motors and transformers I force the current with one
of my homebrew Variac-controlled battery chargers that don't have
output transistors to zap from the kickback. They'll show the
resistance of a foot of 12 AWG copper wire.
Also useful.
The automatic controls just interfere with using it with water
heated
by alternate energy and poured in. Bypassing the timer and sensors
lets me wash with as little as 5 gallons heated on the wood stove,
though 8 is better. Water may be cheap but the electricity to heat
it
isn't. The old non-computerized controls are easy to reconfigure by
moving the Fastons. The schematic is glued to the tub and is easier
to
decipher than the relay-ladder-logic industrial controls I used to
design.
Did the schematic document the unused push-on tab functions too,
or did you have to trace out the switch?
There aren't any unused functions in the timer. Its schematic is
pretty clear although complex. The motor runs one way to wash and the
other way to spin and pump the water out. The centrifugal pump just
runs backwards during Wash. If a water valve leaks it will start a
wash cycle and then empty itself.
O.K.
These old "Dependable Care" models that made Maytag's reputation were
expensive to build and didn't upgrade easily to incorporate the new
features the competition introduced.
I wonder what mine is like inside. We got it when we moved into
this house back around 1975.
This shows the two-speed motor.
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-b...READ.cgi?42826
In low speed the start switch starts with the Start and Run windings,
then switches to the Slow winding. I don't know if that's usual
practice for two speed motors. My DPDT Wash/Spin switch reverses the
red and black wires.
.
Close enough to my year so I've saved and bookmerked the page.
Hmm ... do you have the individual pin connectors for the
Andersons? You can dovetail any number together (and a number of
colors)
to make weird connectors. And -- if you resist solvent-welding
them,
you can split them easily to do things like passing one lead through
a
current transformer at need.
I buy bags of pins and housings at the hamfest. This meter has removed
most of my need for shunts and current transformers. It's accurate to
a few milliamps AC or DC.
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgea...-uni-t-ut210e/
NCV is the Non Contact Voltage beeper. V.F.C is some sort of
filtration to read switched motor drives more accurately, they claim.
O.K. Thanks.
[ ... ]
Some of those Mil connectors and tooling were unavailable even to
Mitre. I had to make the special lock nut spanner wrench for a HAVE
QUICK microphone connector.
:-)
Now Mitre could have been a more convenient place for me to
work. There was at least the octagonal mushroom building belonging to
them a lot closer to my home than Ft. Belvoir was. :-)
Enjoy,
DoN.
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