"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-15, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-14, Jim Wilkins wrote:
This wi
https://www.amazon.com/12-Gauge-Sili.../dp/B0070RZXLW
The local RC hobby store and a discount store that sells car audio
cable carry larger sizes.
O.K. Not the same. The insulation is a lot thinner than the
wire gauge than what I was thinking about. It was about 16 Ga I
think,
and was good up to at least 45 KV -- maybe a lot higher. We used it
with the voltage multipliers we made to power three-stage image
intensifiers. (A lot more current capacity than needed, but good HV
insulation.
Its cut resistance seems low which makes it easy to strip. I deburr
all metal chassis edges to protect my hands so this wire should be
safe.
That Signal Corps school ...
I wonder how they would have liked my 2.2K 2W carbon resistor
with color codes "Black, Black, Violet, Gold" :-) (RC42GF007J)
Q would have appreciated it.
...Otherwise everything was still in good
condition, considering its 40 year age and that I found it dumped
in
the woods. There were two of them and swapping rubber parts fixed
this
one.
So -- both were found at the same time, and had the problem when
you got them?
Someone dumped several used appliances in the woods where I collected
firewood. After driving past them for a year or so I took a close look
and realized the two Maytag washing machines were similar to the one I
have, and loaded them in the trailer with my log hoist -- they weigh
200 lbs. I finally checked them out last summer when mine developed a
tub seal leak and found that one worked fine except that the rubber
tube to the fill switch had hardened and broken, so the water just ran
out onto the ground. That tube and the Maytag-specific drive belts on
the other one were fine but its timer and transmission were bad.
The symptom of an open Run wire was that the motor drew about 22A
when
it failed to start.
Hmmm ... series combination of the start cap and the run winding
resulting in quite low impedance at 60 Hz.
There's no cap, they use the start winding's resistance to create a
phase shift. If you replace the Maytag belt with one from a hardware
store it won't slip and the tub's inertia will keep the start winding
connected long enough to overheat it. I had the front cover off and
smelled the hot insulation before damage occurred
A good start blipped the analog Amprobe to 40A,
then dropped to 7A. The two-wire DVM resistance of the start
winding
is 3.5 Ohms, the Normal and Gentle run windings are around 1 Ohm.
The
Relative feature of my UT61E DVM was enough to cancel the lead
resistance to tell them apart.
Useful. My Fluke 27 can do that too, IIRC. But if I really
want good low resistance measurements, I use the rack-mount digital
multimeter from HP with 4-wire resistance capability. (Not very
portable, however. :-)
I use a lab supply set to 1.00A constant current. Then milliVolts
equal milliOhms. I can see the voltage drop along the 3/8" aluminum
tubing of a TV antenna, and know when I've scrubbed the connecting
screws clean. For motors and transformers I force the current with one
of my homebrew Variac-controlled battery chargers that don't have
output transistors to zap from the kickback. They'll show the
resistance of a foot of 12 AWG copper wire.
The automatic controls just interfere with using it with water
heated
by alternate energy and poured in. Bypassing the timer and sensors
lets me wash with as little as 5 gallons heated on the wood stove,
though 8 is better. Water may be cheap but the electricity to heat
it
isn't. The old non-computerized controls are easy to reconfigure by
moving the Fastons. The schematic is glued to the tub and is easier
to
decipher than the relay-ladder-logic industrial controls I used to
design.
Did the schematic document the unused push-on tab functions too,
or did you have to trace out the switch?
There aren't any unused functions in the timer. Its schematic is
pretty clear although complex. The motor runs one way to wash and the
other way to spin and pump the water out. The centrifugal pump just
runs backwards during Wash. If a water valve leaks it will start a
wash cycle and then empty itself.
These old "Dependable Care" models that made Maytag's reputation were
expensive to build and didn't upgrade easily to incorporate the new
features the competition introduced.
This shows the two-speed motor.
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-b...READ.cgi?42826
In low speed the start switch starts with the Start and Run windings,
then switches to the Slow winding. I don't know if that's usual
practice for two speed motors. My DPDT Wash/Spin switch reverses the
red and black wires.
..
Hmm ... do you have the individual pin connectors for the
Andersons? You can dovetail any number together (and a number of
colors)
to make weird connectors. And -- if you resist solvent-welding
them,
you can split them easily to do things like passing one lead through
a
current transformer at need.
I buy bags of pins and housings at the hamfest. This meter has removed
most of my need for shunts and current transformers. It's accurate to
a few milliamps AC or DC.
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgea...-uni-t-ut210e/
NCV is the Non Contact Voltage beeper. V.F.C is some sort of
filtration to read switched motor drives more accurately, they claim.
I remember some really weird weather resistant connectors we
used for plug-in lithium cells designed for Navy use, I believe. A
soft
rubber pin (6mm or 1/4"diameter) with two or three metal colors
molded
onto the wires, and the connector that they plugged into was open at
both ends, so as you slide it in, it pushes the water out. (I was
working for an Army R&D lab at the time, and I don't know how
available
those connectors were to non-military users. Anyway -- not for the
kind
of current that the PowerPoles can handle, anyway.
Enjoy,
DoN.
Some of those Mil connectors and tooling were unavailable even to
Mitre. I had to make the special lock nut spanner wrench for a HAVE
QUICK microphone connector.
-jsw