"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 22 Feb 2017 18:27:35 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

My 1991 Ford Ranger has the gauge package instead of lights and all
but Oil are functional. The Oil gauge uses a pressure switch and a
resistor that you can bypass if you install a variable-resistance
sender.
http://forums.tccoa.com/37-work-prog...auge-pics.html

I bought the $20 sensor and may install it if I have to remove the
dash for another reason. However the gauge as-is instantly shows
whether the engine has adequate pressure or not, and the dial face
isn't graduated in pressure units.

So install a temporary dial gauge and mark the dash gauge with a
diamond scribe and felt-tip?


Is there a reason other than cost for not using stainless hardware
under the hood? I've been using it to replace broken plastic clips,
though not graded steel bolts.

SS loves to gall and seize, and it can be worse with same grade nut
and bolt, so use a good anti-seize. A $7 bottle of Permatex
al/cu/graphite from Amazon (8oz) will last you for decades. I like
putting a dollop of it on an old wool sock (laundered, of course)
and
fold/squeeze it to distribute. Then take your bolt, fold the sock
over the threaded portion and rotate 270 degrees, coating every
thread
to the root very quickly. Coats dozens before regooping. Store the
sock in a ziplock bag for later use, keeping it with the A/S.

At 5 minutes per entire project, it's a lot less time consuming than
drilling out and tapping one single broken bolt. DAMHIKT.

Four decades, specifically.

The can of Never-Seez I bought around 1975 finally ran low last year,
though I still have plenty of LPS-100 for frame and bumper bolts.
Spark plug threads given a single dab with the brush attached to the
cap come out the next time completely covered, I don't need to mess up
my fingers, tools and the plug insulator with a greasy rag. That end
of the plug will see only a bit of the silicone from the wire boot.

Since it contains metal dust it isn't a good high voltage insulator. I
just checked a 10mm long stripe of it on a paper towel with a 1
kilovolt megger. Well before I was cranking fast enough to reach 1000V
it suddenly broke down and indicated about 2 megohms.

I do know about drilling broken bolts. One of the screws attaching the
Ranger's defective ignition module to the intake manifold sheared off.
The manifold is too big to clamp on my mill, so I machined a drill jig
(guide) that indexed on the other screws and drilled the broken one
cleanly enough to reuse the threads in the aluminum manifold.
-jsw