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Andrew Gabriel Andrew Gabriel is offline
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:
In article ,
Phil L wrote:
I've tried gluing the back box in but as soon as there is any movement
of the cables, which there obviously is when connecting the switch,
the glue can't hold and the box moves about again.


Remove the box, and fit a couple of wood battens either side of the
opening (1" x 1" will be more than adequate) to the back of the
plasterboard, their edges flush with the opening. Screw them in place
using screws through the plasterboard and make good the heads - non
rusting screws being best.

Then screw the box to the battens using small countersunk head screws that
won't foul on the fitting in any way. You may well have to drill holes in
the box sides for this.

This method provides an extremely strong fixing for any steel backbox
into plasterboard.


Used to do this for isolating shaver sockets into plasterboard walls,
as it took some years before deep enough plasterboard back boxes appered.

If the plasterboard were tiled or well decorated, you might get away with
glueing the battens to the back of it and clamping until the glue sets. If
you're lucky. ;-)


Another way (although more suited to a wall which is too crumbly to
affix a back box) is to fill the hole with plaster bonding coat, and
then push the box back into it. Leave plaster to set (wipe clear of
any lugs before it sets). This won't budge.
A bag of old plaster is ideal for this as it will set very quickly.

--
Andrew Gabriel
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