On 2/15/17 8:14 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/15/2017 1:40 AM, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 14, 2017 at 8:02:49 PM UTC-6, Doug wrote:
dadiOH,
Thank you for the reply. I want to take the opportunioty to
Thank You agian for the recommendations, guidance, and confidence
you provided regarding refinishing my mahagony front door with Z
Spar Flagship varnish. That was the best, most valuable input I
have ever recevied for a home improvement project. The door
still looks great almost 4 years later although a touch here and
there may be beneficial.
Doug
"dadiOH" wrote:
"Doug" wrote in message
...
Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of
wood filler perform well in this application after priming
and painting?
Thanks.
Doug
Splits can be iffy. I wouldn't use any rigid filler, I'd use
a caulk, then prime and paint.
Doug -
You will rarely, if ever, see dadiOH give bad advice. I do all
manner of repair and finishing for a living and have to say his
advice is usually spot on.
As was his thoughts on splits; wood moves on its own based on
temps. Hard fillers aren't the ticket as they have no elasticity,
and if the wood moves the patch material separates from the
perimeter of the patch from repeated movement.
Epoxies, resins and their cousins are fine for interior use as you
are usually repairing a piece that is acclimated to inside
humidity from AC/furnace controls, so humidity doesn't fluctuate
wildly. Nor do the temps. Most of the time they aren't your
optimal choice for exterior use.
Again, as he said, your best bet for splits, cracks wind shake, is
a good caulk. To do all my repair sealing, I use the ALEX 40 year
with silicone that is available at the home stores. It hold paint
very well, has great adhesion, shrinks only a tiny bit, tools well
and has something like 10% elasticity when cured.
Robert
Coming in late here but Butyl, printable, caulk remains very
flexible for years on end and fills gaps pretty nicely. It is kinda
messy though.
When going the caulk route, it's important to follow the manufacturer's
specs for filler strips. You can't just fill a huge void with caulk and
walk away. If it's over a certain width/depth (usually 3/8"-1/2" max),
you need to put those foam backer rods in the space, under the caulk.
Too many people neglect this important step, then blame the caulk for
failing. Caulk expands and contracts like an accordion. It can only be
adhered on 2 opposite sides. If it's adhered to 3 adjacent sides, it
will pull away from one, opening up a gap. Even if it's applied to 2
sides, properly, if the gap is wider than the manufacturer's specs it
will either crack in the middle or pull away from one side.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
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