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On Wednesday, January 25, 2017 at 11:05:25 AM UTC-5,

Note: I did electronic service work for many years.
Note: This DVD recorder does NOT use a computer. It has
AV inputs and outputs plus a built in TV type tuner.


a) Whether or not there is a "computer" (formal microprocessor) involved,
there is still a great deal of RAM involved in the AD/DA process. So, try
a hard reboot: Unplug the machine while ON (but no disc and not playing).
Allow it to sit for at least an hour. Activate the "ON" switch for a full
30 seconds while still unplugged. Wait another full minute. Plug back in
and restart.

b) If that does not help, replace any caps in the P/S anyway whether they
pass the various (low voltage) tests applied. One of the most significant
mistakes amateurs make with electrolytic caps is assuming a
higher-than-expected reading as "good". Many times, it is more indicative
the cap slowly going open.

That's probably a worthwhile precaution anyway whether they need it or not -
a few of the PSU electrolytics are capable of letting the magic smoke out
with a fair bit of enthusiasm!

In the absence of an ESR meter - any bulged or sunken tops should be
investigated. Dried out caps can feel noticeably light.

In a PSU; bad caps can get hot - deteriorated plastic sleeve can be a clue.

I have a continuity tester/voltage indicator that causes both charge and
discharge blips in the LEDs. I used that before I got an ESR meter. With a
bit of practice you can tell a fair bit by how the cap charges and
discharges through the LEDs. Not as good - but you can get away with an
inverse parallel pair of LEDs, a battery, a current limiting resistor and a
push button.

An ESR meter takes the uncertainty out of it - I use the Peak Atlas
instrument. Its not cheap - but could pay for itself quicker than you think.