Bert Coules wrote:

Roger Hayter wrote:

If the hob is wired with suitable cable/flex for 45A *and* the makers
of the hob specify that a 45A supply is ok you could use a standard
cooker switch (which would be useful if you ever put an oven in),
otherwise same as above.

The hob is specified as 230V 2900W and is fitted with what appears to be a
standard flexible 3-core cable. It came from a previous kitchen where, as I
recall, it was plugged into an ordinary 32A socket located behind the
cabinet. I was intending to use a conventional cooker switch with 2.5mm
cable to a cooker connector and the hob's own cable thereafter.


On reflection, if you want to connect this circuit to a cooker switch it
would be a lot better to leave it otherwise unused and take a spur off
an adjacent ring main to a socket for the fridge and a fused spur switch
for the hob. Ideally these should be two separate spurs, but one might
do if they are not too long.

If you are going to use the original circuit you probably need to use a
smaller MCB (absolute minimum 32A) and a plug for the fridge and
definitely a fused 13A spur for the hob if you don't want it on a plug.
The danger it seems to me is someone in the future changes it back to a
45A MCB for a cooker without removing these spurs they will not be
properly protected.

--

Roger Hayter