Bert Coules wrote:

Roger Hayter wrote:

If the hob is wired with suitable cable/flex for 45A *and* the makers
of the hob specify that a 45A supply is ok you could use a standard
cooker switch (which would be useful if you ever put an oven in),
otherwise same as above.

The hob is specified as 230V 2900W and is fitted with what appears to be a
standard flexible 3-core cable. It came from a previous kitchen where, as I
recall, it was plugged into an ordinary 32A socket located behind the
cabinet. I was intending to use a conventional cooker switch with 2.5mm
cable to a cooker connector and the hob's own cable thereafter.

You shouldn't do that. The 2.5mm^2 cable, the flex and the hob will
then only be protected by a 45A MCB. If you don't want to plug the hob
into the socket on the cooker switch (and you probably don't as it would
look untidy) it needs it's own 13A spur. How you actually connect the
isolating switch to the 45A circuit is a mystery to me, as you probably
can't connect sufficiently big cable into the switch input - perhaps
someone will tell us.
--

Roger Hayter