On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 23:18:56 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 9:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 21:02:16 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 8:47 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 20:42:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 8:06 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:06:09 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 12:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but
introducing a little too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would
be good for the saw or the material or the
operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough"
or professional cuts and fit? The corners won't be
as square because of the way it cuts. Another
opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html




Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface
of the material but the bottom is rounded so it is
not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very
smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut
rounded bottom dados. If you are using construction
grade lumber and need to cut dados the wobble dado
will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom
can be handled in a couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for
that purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but
not all of the dado/groove I want. It does that very
well. I then finish with one pass of a router bit for
final width and depth.

How do you guide the router? Seems if you're going to
all that trouble it would be easier to just use the
router.


True, in some cases and as usually it just depends on what
you're doing. While router bits are great for making,
clean, precise, square cuts, they are not particularly well
suited for hogging out a bunch of material.

Multiple passes?

If it takes multiple passes, then that kind of proves it's not
good for hogging out a lot of material, right?

Of course. We all understand routers, here. However, it's only
one setup. I worry about registration errors if I were to use
two tools for one operation.

Often, when I do this, I'm hogging it out on the TS a little shy of
the total dimension. Then the router cuts the final dimensions,
usually barely taking any wood with it.

Whether you want to take a lot or not, the registration has to be
perfect. ...or you will. ;-)

I may be misunderstanding what you mean by registration.
Let's say I need a 3/4" dado cut exactly between 23-1/4" and 24" from
the end of a bookcase side. On the table saw, maybe I will only cut a
5/8 dado slot at 23-15/16" from the edge and a tad shy of full depth.
When I route the final dado slot with the router, I set my guide to the
24" and cut. It makes a very clean edge on all three sides, only having
to cut 1/16" all around. That's just an example.

Ah! That's what I missed. I thought you were only cleaning up the
bottoms with the router.

It's really not different than rough cutting a sheet of plywood a little
large, then cutting down to the final dimension on the TS. The rough
cut is largely irrelevant and the critical measurement is only done once.

Yes, now I see. You're just using the saw as the rough cut, much like
I use the track saw for the rough cut, cleaning it up with the table
saw.

With my dado jig, the process is very fast.
https://goo.gl/photos/StFnQBzCj3J9NCcp8

Very nice. Bunch of good ideas hiding in there. Thanks!

Thank you, it's been really good to me.
Like many of my jigs, it was only intended to be a rough prototype that
would serve as a template for a final version. But it works so well, I
just stuck with it.