Thread: wobble dado
View Single Post
  #35   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Leon[_5_] Leon[_5_] is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,053
Default wobble dado

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 1/19/2017 8:04 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:14:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2017 12:00 PM,
wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 10:40:05 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2017 4:44 AM, whit3rd wrote:
On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 4:43:28 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos

You want cheap or quality?

I want both.

Wobble and stack both do good sidewalls; I prefer router cuts to get
flat bottoms, though. Routed dado cuts can be stopped more easily, too.

Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

That's half-true; a wobble dado blade is sharpened for ONE width to
get a flat-bottomed cut, and narrower cuts have a ridge down the
kerf center, while wider have dished bottoms.

I'll bite, what is that one width?

Vaires by manufacturer but I think it's 3/4" on mine.

I was thinking as close to the narrowest setting.

I don't want to get into a ****ing contest with you here but consider
this and let me know if I am missing something.

Regardless of grind if the blade is straight up and down,the narrowest
setting and perpendicular to the work it will make the narrowest cut.

As you widen the wobble the blade does not protrude as far up as with
the perpendicular setting "on the outsides of the cut". The teeth at
the center of the blade still cuts deep and the tips of the blade, near
the outer edge of the cut, do not cut as deeply. Easier to visualize
using a pendulum and or a plum bob that just touches the surface and
when you swing it away it no longer touches the surface.


What you're missing is that the teeth aren't flat.


Understood but their reach is constant. The wider the cut, the
shallower the cut at the edges of



OK I think I can see how that can happen now. Not just the angle of grind
on the teeth for a flat cut at a given width but also the teeth that remain
near the center of a 3/4" cut are actually ground shorter in length than
the outer cutting teeth.

That would also cause a high spot in the middle of narrower grooves or
dados.

The one I had was pretty old and not made that way, the wider the dado the
more cup I got in the middle of the grove or dado.