Thread: wobble dado
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Leon[_7_] Leon[_7_] is offline
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Default wobble dado

On 1/19/2017 8:04 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:14:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2017 12:00 PM,
wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 10:40:05 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2017 4:44 AM, whit3rd wrote:
On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 4:43:28 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos

You want cheap or quality?

I want both.

Wobble and stack both do good sidewalls; I prefer router cuts to get
flat bottoms, though. Routed dado cuts can be stopped more easily, too.

Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

That's half-true; a wobble dado blade is sharpened for ONE width to
get a flat-bottomed cut, and narrower cuts have a ridge down the
kerf center, while wider have dished bottoms.

I'll bite, what is that one width?

Vaires by manufacturer but I think it's 3/4" on mine.


I was thinking as close to the narrowest setting.

I don't want to get into a ****ing contest with you here but consider
this and let me know if I am missing something.

Regardless of grind if the blade is straight up and down,the narrowest
setting and perpendicular to the work it will make the narrowest cut.

As you widen the wobble the blade does not protrude as far up as with
the perpendicular setting "on the outsides of the cut". The teeth at
the center of the blade still cuts deep and the tips of the blade, near
the outer edge of the cut, do not cut as deeply. Easier to visualize
using a pendulum and or a plum bob that just touches the surface and
when you swing it away it no longer touches the surface.


What you're missing is that the teeth aren't flat.


Understood but their reach is constant. The wider the cut, the
shallower the cut at the edges of the dado.

Mine never gave a flat bottom.






If all you want is a dado to guide some slide-in inserts, wobble is fine.
It doesn't require you to keep track of a lot of washers and chippers, such
as are missing from my several part-sets of stacked dado blades...


If you have problems keeping up washers/shims and chippers,,,,,,,,

Was wondering about that myself. Even if you lose them, they're
available separately. The magnetic ones work really well.


The ones that came with my Forrest Dado set are rubber magnetic and one
have gotten away after hundreds of uses.


Ditto. They're available aftermarket, too.