On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 20:42:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 8:06 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:06:09 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 12:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but
introducing a little too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good
for the saw or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or
professional cuts and fit? The corners won't be as square
because of the way it cuts. Another opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of
the material but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to
the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded
bottom dados. If you are using construction grade lumber and
need to cut dados the wobble dado will suffice for rough
work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can be
handled in a couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that
purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not all of
the dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I then finish
with one pass of a router bit for final width and depth.

How do you guide the router? Seems if you're going to all that
trouble it would be easier to just use the router.


True, in some cases and as usually it just depends on what you're
doing. While router bits are great for making, clean, precise,
square cuts, they are not particularly well suited for hogging out
a bunch of material.

Multiple passes?

If it takes multiple passes, then that kind of proves it's not good for
hogging out a lot of material, right?

Of course. We all understand routers, here. However, it's only one
setup. I worry about registration errors if I were to use two tools
for one operation.



As people will do with rough cutting down plywood into smaller
sections, then doing the precise cutting on the TS, I've done the
opposite on a few projects that made it more efficient for me. You
hog out the bulk of material on the TS, quickly and with little
effort. They you clean it up with a precise cut using the router.

It just seems that this is a lot of setup work.


Again, it always depends on the task/job and tools.
In my case, where I'm dealing with a pretty good dado/rabbet that just
needs the "bat ears" flattened out a pattern bit is a quick way to
square out the bottom without any extra set-up.

But I also already have jigs made that set up to a cut-line with no
measuring/marking of any kind, so any extra set-up time is negligible.