On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 14:55:21 -0500, "dadiOH" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH" wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for the saw
or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or professional
cuts
and fit? The corners won't be as square because of the way it cuts.
Another opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded bottom
dados.
If you are using construction grade lumber and need to cut dados the
wobble dado will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can be handled in a
couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not all of the
dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I then finish with one pass
of
a router bit for final width and depth.

How do you guide the router?

The same way as you would do if making the entire cut with the router.

I was looking for some easy trick that could use the setup already
used for the dado, like Leon's top-bearing bit.

Seems if you're going to all that trouble it would be easier to just use
the router.

Well, one could certainly do that; however, IMO, routers are really meant to
trim relatively small amounts of wood. And, IME, they work best in that
manner. If one needs a bunch of 3/4 x 3/4 grooves in 6/4 oak, you could
either hog out most - 11/16 x 11/16 for example - with a table saw in one
pass and then make one light pass with the router to final size or you could
make multiple basses with a 3/4" router bit, gradually increasing the depth.
I find the former easier and better, YMMV.