On 1/15/2017 9:33 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 1/14/17 9:12 AM, Leon wrote:
I use a cheap 1/4" shank, 1/2" wide x 1/2" long top bearing flush cut
bit for the initial grove. My template was 3/4" MDF, easy to shape and
smooth the arcs. Done with a hand held trim router.
I see. I tend to use 1/4" hardboard, easier to shape, but I'll now use
the hardboard as a template for some 3/4" MDF. Seems way easier than
what I've been doing.
A small bit like I described above would require you to make a 1/2" deep
initial grove if I you use 1/4" pattern material. With a 1/4" shank bit
I really prefer to just go about 1/8" deep especially in maple.
After cutting down the middle of the groove with my BS I use a
1"diameter flush trim bit in my router table. the bearing rides along
the first grove and cleans up the remaining 5/8" of material.
Yep, same here. It's kind of eerie to make a "perfect" inlay, then vut
it all up again 8^)
LOL yeah, you are successful in gluing in the strips and clamping and
planing the proud part of the strips and sanding a bit.......then do
that 2 more times on the same board.
Not totally unlike making 3 times as many cutting boards with straight
decorative strips.
The latest ones:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/263994
There is a short FWW video of the process (if you can finish it with out
barfing from the vertigo 8^)
http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-t...oard-ever.aspx
That is the one I watched to learn how to do this.
A couple of suggestions and the video shows this but you have to be
looking for it.
Clamping is challenging.
1. Cut your strips so that they are proud of the top and bottom surface
of the cutting board halves by about 1/4", They slip a bit during
clamping.
Sure do! I tend to make the parts 1-1/2" for a 1" board. All that
leveling and cutting takes its toll on thickness.
2. Cut a grove in the cauls for the thin strips to pass through during
the clamp up.
End cauls too!
I do not recall using end cauls, I think I just whacked the ends with a
hammer and square cut the ends after the last glue up.
I had issues at first with getting everything coated with glue and set
into the clamps before things began to set up. I then switched to epoxy.
I used TBIII and had my wife assist, that went pretty fast but the epoxy
is probably the best solution for open time and strength in the long run.
Expensive, but the extended work time was a blessing. Then I started
having issues with the epoxy failing (probably from being rigid and
shearing due to the slight wood movement).
OOps nix my comment above.... ;~)
Everything is TB3 now, but
with plenty of sloppy squeeze out I manage to get to the clamps in time.
LOL well only nix the second half of my comment two responses up.
Can you imagine making the strips and doing the leveling at each inlay
step without a drum sander?
The drum sander certainly makes it easier but I would imagine a belt
sander would suffice.