On 1/14/17 9:12 AM, Leon wrote:

I use a cheap 1/4" shank, 1/2" wide x 1/2" long top bearing flush cut
bit for the initial grove. My template was 3/4" MDF, easy to shape and
smooth the arcs. Done with a hand held trim router.

I see. I tend to use 1/4" hardboard, easier to shape, but I'll now use
the hardboard as a template for some 3/4" MDF. Seems way easier than
what I've been doing.



After cutting down the middle of the groove with my BS I use a
1"diameter flush trim bit in my router table. the bearing rides along
the first grove and cleans up the remaining 5/8" of material.


Yep, same here. It's kind of eerie to make a "perfect" inlay, then vut
it all up again 8^)



The latest ones:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/263994

There is a short FWW video of the process (if you can finish it with out
barfing from the vertigo 8^)

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-t...oard-ever.aspx


That is the one I watched to learn how to do this.

A couple of suggestions and the video shows this but you have to be
looking for it.

Clamping is challenging.
1. Cut your strips so that they are proud of the top and bottom surface
of the cutting board halves by about 1/4", They slip a bit during
clamping.

Sure do! I tend to make the parts 1-1/2" for a 1" board. All that
leveling and cutting takes its toll on thickness.

2. Cut a grove in the cauls for the thin strips to pass through during
the clamp up.

End cauls too!

I had issues at first with getting everything coated with glue and set
into the clamps before things began to set up. I then switched to epoxy.
Expensive, but the extended work time was a blessing. Then I started
having issues with the epoxy failing (probably from being rigid and
shearing due to the slight wood movement). Everything is TB3 now, but
with plenty of sloppy squeeze out I manage to get to the clamps in time.

Can you imagine making the strips and doing the leveling at each inlay
step without a drum sander?

-BR