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Ralph Mowery

In article ,
says...

The page would not load for me, but I got this to say. I don't buy this snake oil ****. As long as the gauge is thick enough to allow good damping and not lose signal you are good to go.

As far as I can tell, the best speaker wire would be solid, like Rpmex that is in a casing which will force the two leads to run parallel.

Nelson Pass designs little three watt amplifiers n **** like that, there is no appreciable magnetic field. Audiophiles swear by them though. They also like single ended triode tube amps. This is where you take a 6L6 or 1 6550 per channel and rock the house with five watts. They replace perfectly good capacitors with super expensive ones which supposedly sound better.

He is obviously pandering to those who do not know electronics. Float your scope and the DUT, put the scope probe across any coupling cap in there and if all you see is DC it is good enough for the job. Same with filters, if all you see is DC it is good enough. I mean they do the cap job on single ended amps.

In some cases you might get a little more oomph out of a class AB amp upping the value of the main filters but you are not getting more power. All you get is more time at your dynamic headroom point before the voltages drop to the steady state power point. Same **** a few milliseconds later.

I have indeed heard the difference when speaker wires are of insufficient gauge, but it was an extreme demonstration.. fifty feet of zip cord that was maybe 28 gauge or something. Not much fatter than telephone wire.

When they can sell about 6 feet of wire to go from the equipment to a
wall socket for over $ 100 , it proves they will buy most anything.

That wire must be some oxygen free, special insulated wire or some such
snake oil coated. There is no way the wire of the same gauge is going
to be noticed when there is probaly over 50 feet of cheep wire from the
socket to the breaker box of the house and hard telling how many miles
of even cheaper made wire to the power company.