"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 15 Dec 2016 13:27:27 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:
snip
The price is very interesting, compared to $1000 for some of the
others on that page. How do you keep your regulator output from
exceeding 10A, or limit the under-hood temperature to 140F?
I wondered how they were overcoming some of the inherent troubles of
lithium batteries. The proper one for my motorcycle would be this
one:
https://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Phosp...dp/B00XWYH3AG/
I don't know what they are up to, it is suppose to be a direct drop
in
replacement for my bike. Motorcycles in general don't have very
strong
alternators. I have the specs, could look it up if you want...
snip
I was the battery tech at Segway and Zoll Medical, and once a
chemist
who experienced a Lithium Aluminum Hydride fire in a fume hood.
I know you have a lot of battery knowledge, that's why I asked if
you
had any experience with these 
snip
Which "smart, desulfating charger" did you use? Opinions vary on
their
effectiveness. Pulsing makes sense from the circuit designer's
perspective because it cheaply forces current with higher voltage
while limiting current and heating, but I'm not so sure it does what
they claim inside the battery. The DC overvoltage desulfation
method
I use can run away if the current isn't limited by either circuitry
or
using a small solar panel as the source.
The CTEK MUS 4.3, nothing special. There are several very similar
units.
https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-864-A...dp/B006G14FK8/
What I really like is that I have a cable attached to the bike so it
is
easy to hook-up. The battery and connections are buried in the
middle
of the bike. I can set it to charging and if I forget to remove it
in an
hour or two it switches off more or less when complete. My other
trickle chargers just keep cooking until you remove them. I'm too
much
of cheapskate to just leave it going all the time but that is one of
its
supposed features.
I've seen it in its desulphating mode at times while charging the
motorcycle battery. Those batteries never last very long no matter
how
I treat them...
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email
Radio amateurs have standardized on Anderson Powerpole connectors for
12VDC battery cabling.
http://www.westmountainradio.com/kb_...c.php?id=ST166
I used high temperature Silicone wire in the engine compartment, 12
gauge so I could also draw power from it as well as trickle charge
with the hood closed. The wire in the vehicle is short and I made an
extension from all the rest of the wire.
There are several models of inexpensive Volt + Amp and Volt + Amp +
Watt meters that can be added in line with Andersons so you can
actually see the charging current. I like this one for topping off
batteries because of its good current resolution.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZTTAKO...ing=UTF8&psc=1
I have a 10A model on my modified charger and 100A ones for measuring
the draw of DC-AC inverters.
--jsw